Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I just transplanted an RB25DE (with VCT) in my S. This new engine under load has a strange metallic noise around two and three thou RPM, more like two metal parts being in contact and resonating. It always occurs around 2-3K then goes away. It seems to settle down slightly when the engine reaches operating temp. The noise is the same even with VCT solenoid disconnected.

The noise appears to be coming from the exhaust, yet I removed all shields and is still there. Noise could transmit though from the engine.

The spark plugs are very clean and white, so there seems to be no valve problems. The car accelerates and idles very smoothly. Fuel consumption for this new engine seems to be higher than what it should be (although these issues may not be linked).

Any ideas to what it may be and how to fix?

Thanks in advance =]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170221-rb25de-metalic-resonating/
Share on other sites

no idea what it sounds like... but if it is what i think you're trying to describe then it's a typical inline 6 twin cam characteristic... the m3 has a slight metallic raspy sound (and yes i have heard one in full song in real life) - and although not comparable, it is quite distinct.

try to put a sound file up... easier to diagnose

could be either one of ur mufflers have collapsed. or your cat. hit them to see if it rattles that or check for loose bolts or washers

Done that.. Exhaust is fine. Nothing rattles.. no loose bolts.. only thing I found once I took off the sheilding was a small rock. Muffler and cat have no noise at all.

Ill try getting a sound file :O

Im going with eugene, mine sounded terrible till i got a proper exhaust put on it, its a twin cam thing, do a search on exhausts in this section to get a better idea of muffler, resonator and pipe diameter to fix the problem. I also learned the other day, like a resonator a pipe can be added perpendicular to ur normal exhaust just to act as another expansion chamber.. honda uses this to deal with the twin cam resonance.

Unfortunately I cannot import a sound clip from my phone to my copmputer.

Is there anywhere I can hear a 25DE engine? On a video or sound clip to compair the two?

As per before.. just sounds like metal clipping.

It could be your gearbox. I ran my car with the rubber gear boot off once, and the noise was extremely loud and it was obviously coming from the gearbox. Nothing to worry about. Could see if changing your oil improves it. Check that your gear boot is fitted properly.

It could be your gearbox. I ran my car with the rubber gear boot off once, and the noise was extremely loud and it was obviously coming from the gearbox.

But why would the resonating be between 2-3 K? If it was the G-box.. wouldnt it be throughout all RMP range? And Im pretty sure its from the engine. When we opened the G-box it was in pretty good nik. It seems like its comming from the engine and all simptoms seem to point that way. Thats why Im so freaked out about it.

I have that sound too. Ill try get a sound file now.

Much appreciated brother bear!

But why would the resonating be between 2-3 K? If it was the G-box.. wouldnt it be throughout all RMP range? And Im pretty sure its from the engine. When we opened the G-box it was in pretty good nik. It seems like its comming from the engine and all simptoms seem to point that way. Thats why Im so freaked out about it.

no. it hits its natural frequency at this rpm range, hence making the noise.

I have the same noise with my r32 gts25, it has the rb25de as well and is making the metallic noise around the same rev range. I have only just started noticing it within the past 2 weeks( have had my licence for a month now lol)

my exhaust seems to be running quite hot as well, but not hot enough for the exhaust overheat light to come on.

Ill check my cat and exhaust out on the weekend anyway.

Ps i have an auto gearbox and flushed it out as well as the torque convertor and replaced with new fluid but still sounds the same.

YES!..

But without the sexual exhaust note..

Got my papa bear to drive it today.. its freakin LOUD!.. the metalic resonating is just like the one you showed.. but just much louder and somehow.. nastier sounding..

I take it by the replies that its just a normal sound?

It has a stock RB20DET exhaust with the slightly bent R33 25DE connector from the headers to the exhaust flange. Does anyone see anything wrong with this?

Much appreciated sound clip :)

What size is your exhaust GTS4WD anyway now that you did the transplant?

I transplanted a Rb25DE from a 4wd Stagea into my R32 GTS4 which had an RB20DET. It has a stock 20DET exhaust. The only difference is that I used an R33 connector pipe from a RB25DE to connect the headers to the stock RB20DET exhaust.

  • 3 weeks later...

if anyone still cares.. This metalic resonating is a common problem in early RB25DE's.. It causes absolutely no damage to the engine/exhaust.. The only way to get rid of it is a cat/exhaust/muff.. or bear they annoying very loud rattle..

Advan (in Syd) + 1 point!

The way it was explained to me is that:

"all engines make noise due to moving parts/rpm/mods etc..

Most engines sound different, they have different mechanical characteristics and that makes them sound diff..

early models of the RB25DE have that loud metalic raspy resonance due to the way the engine was designed"

Its a shit load louder than a raspy cams sound.. Got a mate to drive it the other day so i could hear it from the outside..

its LOUD! i mean FREAKING LOUD! it resonates through the whole exhaust and is amplified and expeled out the end.

In the later Rb25DE's there was a small flap that was kept closed at row rpm and opened at WOP and higher RPM to help keep the noise of it to a minimum.

An exhaust/muffler will cancel the sound, hence there arnt any/rarely do modded 25de's have the sound. Couple it with a new exhaust, and it disapears completely.

So yeah, its just a natural characteristic that 25de's have. Its similar to cams on full symphany, but a million times louder, and out the exhaust.

Theres no mechanical defect with the engine/exhaust. It causes no damage and will not harm the engine.. its just there..

hope this little bit of info helps anyone in the future..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...