Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-30983-1180166935_thumb.jpg

Hi all just a simple one when im reving my car out at about 5500rpm this orange light lights up on my dash saying "check" it only really flashes on and off but still comes up. What is it? I've included a pic so you know which one its the yellow one in the top right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170232-what-does-this-light-mean/
Share on other sites

Your engine is knocking, it comes on with a knock reading over 60. Get your car looked at immediately or you could do serious engine damage. Could be caused by poor tuning, bad fuel, bad plugs ect ect.

Edited by fEkuaR
exhaust, z32 afm, apexi pod, power fc, fmic. But i had to reset the the power fc so its running untuned at the moment. Do you reckon once it's tuned it should be ok?

yes. have you selected the Z32 AFM in the menu (if you have reset the STD AFM will be selected)...it may cure the problem...until properly tuned.

the engine is seeing more air than the Z32 is indicating (its probably set up for the STD AFM)...hence the injectors are not putting enough fuel in your engine. The power fc should run rich with a base map with the Z32 selected so should be nice and safe.

it might not apply here, but turning OFF the optional boost controller on the pfc off sounds similar to what you're describing.

on the hand controller, go to:

Etc mode

Function Select

Boost Control Kit

then opposite to whatever its on now (it will be in japanese).

if it doesnt work then change it back.

it might not apply here, but turning OFF the optional boost controller on the pfc off sounds similar to what you're describing.

on the hand controller, go to:

Etc mode

Function Select

Boost Control Kit

then opposite to whatever its on now (it will be in japanese).

if it doesnt work then change it back.

That leaves the light on all the time and in some cases the car won't start (probably dependant on firmware version).

That leaves the light on all the time and in some cases the car won't start (probably dependant on firmware version).

no... my mates r33 had the same problem after he reset his pfc. only came on under load past 5k.

no... my mates r33 had the same problem after he reset his pfc. only came on under load past 5k.

Funny how it would detect that the boost controller was not there all the time but only display the fault after 5k rpm under load on a base tune.

I'm only going off what my PFC does and what's in Paul's PFC FAQ.

it might not apply here, but turning OFF the optional boost controller on the pfc off sounds similar to what you're describing.

on the hand controller, go to:

Etc mode

Function Select

Boost Control Kit

then opposite to whatever its on now (it will be in japanese).

if it doesnt work then change it back.

In my experience the car wont even start with the boost controller setting set ON if it's not plugged in.

As for the bloke's original problem, I think running around with the base PFC map is a pretty bad idea. It's designed so you can putt it to the tuner not so you can drive the car every day. The fact that you don't even know what a check engine light in is even scarier... Take the PFC out and put your stock ECU back in before you cost yourself thousands of dollars when you have to rebuild your motor.

Either that or stop driving it until you can tune it... its not rocket science...

In my experience the car wont even start with the boost controller setting set ON if it's not plugged in.

As for the bloke's original problem, I think running around with the base PFC map is a pretty bad idea. It's designed so you can putt it to the tuner not so you can drive the car every day. The fact that you don't even know what a check engine light in is even scarier... Take the PFC out and put your stock ECU back in before you cost yourself thousands of dollars when you have to rebuild your motor.

Either that or stop driving it until you can tune it... its not rocket science...

im 100% sure it does what he is describing with the BC setting on. my mates did it after a reset as i mentioned. i went through the settings to turn it off and it doesnt do it anymore.

it is just a thought anyhow, if it doesnt work for him then move on.

guys, its the knock reading on the power fc going above 60. the first reply was correct.

if you go to monitor, and select knock as one of the channels, then press right so it displays the maximum you have reached on the right side of the screen. rev it out and watch the little light flash, then look at the max value you have reached.

i guarantee its more than 60. this is why you need to tune the car, to stop the engine pinging and get it running healthily. go now and do it lol.

I recently got my Power FC installed in my R33 GTST. I had the same problem to start with but the light stayed on all the time not flashing. This was because my boost control warning sensor was turned on when i didn't had the boost controller kit.

when i was on the high rpm like 6000, the engine check light started flashing as the knock reading was like 89-97. So i had to take my car for dyno tuning again. If you are getting the high knock reading, Check your map on the power fc and locate the point on the 20*20 cells when the light flashes. You have to reduce few degrees on the timing from that cell and the neighboring cells as well.

I am still getting same problem but its not due to knocking, its AFM as my stock AFM is maxed out.

Tuning should fix your problem.

I took car in today to have it dyno and the guys told me, your car is running TOO LEAN.

What does that mean/ Can effect will it have on my engine, car because I will not get to the tuner shop til Friday?

I have these mods, TM boost control, POD of some kind, split dump pipe, full exhaust with 3" tip, Axexi Power FC and a FMIC.

Any and all helpful answer are cool.

The one dyno run at 13.5 PSI was 194 rwkw.

  • 1 month later...

That light wont come on till 78 knock on standard skyline so its actually quite high from factory not 60, anything under 60 once you get it tuned is desirable and what tuners look for, it wont detonate on the first ping but if u continue to drive with it contiually pinging it will go bang....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...