Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

From what I've read on this forum, the choice for a high flow panel filter is between the Pipercross and K&N. Where and what type/size do I get that would suit? In Adelaide ofcourse.

edit: A rough idea on cost would help mke my choice too.

Cheers,

N.

p.s. Haven't exactly got the car yet but the wait is a killer ain't it!

Edited by webng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170245-high-flowing-panel-filter/
Share on other sites

I got a Bee*R panel filter from Otomoto in Sydney.

$20 plus $5 postage.

I'm not sure on the flow properties, but Bee*R are a fairly well known japanese brand, so should be okay.

Most Nissan airboxes should be the same size, especially RBs. Mine is for my S1 Stagea.

I have an apexi panel filter (dry type) - no idea what its like compared to others.

I can hear induction noise so I kinda assume it flows more than stock...

didn't really want K&N cos they are oiled but most people have no problems with them. I think in my case (i had a k&n one in a silvia, my last car) and some workshop I had the car serviced at re-oiled the filter for me and may have put way too much oil in. After that it started stuffing up my AFM but I never realised thats likely to be what it was until months later. I replaced the k&n filter with a cheapie bosch one from sprints and it was fine...but like I said everyone else I know thats got one has no probs with them...

I'm not even sure what improvement you get with an aftermarket panel filter...I just got mine off ebay cos it was a good price (bout $50+postage if i remember right).

pretty sure it was from a r33 skyline so most skyline ones should fit, especially r34 (since yours is s2 like mine and shares a lot of things in common with r34 skylines).

And will be great to have another s2 stagea in adelaide!!! not many of us around...have only seen 1 other s2 here in the 13-14 months i've owned mine...

K&N flow so well because they don't filter shit and the oil fouls up your AFM if you're not careful.

Get a Pipercross if you have to, but air filters are pretty much wank, there's a lot more things you can do to your car before you'll get a noticeable difference from the $12 Nissan item.

Edited by Oosh
K&N flow so well because they don't filter shit and the oil fouls up your AFM if you're not careful.

Get a Pipercross if you have to, but air filters are pretty much wank, there's a lot more things you can do to your car before you'll get a noticeable difference from the $12 Nissan item.

I know for certain that I can hear a lot more induction noise (ie. whoosh of air, not the whine/whistle of the turbo) with the aftermarket filter in. Same thing when I put the K&N in my old silvia. I actually thought I must have installed it wrong and that it must not fit properly because the induction noise was so noticeable. All was fine tho...

But so saying, I agree that performance-wise there's probably not much difference. Maybe its one of those things that just compliments the rest of your "breathing" mods? (ie. exhaust, etc) dunno. I just got mine cos it was cheap and cos its apexi so my car MUST go faster now... >_< (nothing wrong with apexi products btw, i also have a safc which is a great piece of gear).

I have an apexi panel filter (dry type) - no idea what its like compared to others.

I can hear induction noise so I kinda assume it flows more than stock......And will be great to have another s2 stagea in adelaide!!! not many of us around...have only seen 1 other s2 here in the 13-14 months i've owned mine...

Thanks!

Currently my N14 Pulsar Ti has a K&N pod which sounds pretty cool too, but i don't want to stuff around with a CAI and heatshield with the Stagea so I'll definitely be going an aftermarket filter in the standard box.

Went to Repco on Payneham Rd and none of the guys there had heard of Pipercross before. They have the K&N one there though... $129. Thought that was pretty exxy. Anyone know where I can get Pipercross in Adelaide?

A CAI will likely do 10x more good than a filter change and probably cost less.

But you need to find out just what REALLY is the restriction in the system and not blindly "upgrade" something coz it's "cool" esp. when chances are you're filling your engine with dust.

But if you want to put in a <insert brand name here> filter and put on the sticker to go with it (I hear they add power too) then who am I to stop you? :worship:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...