Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MAJOR SERVICE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST

A) ENGINE

Change Engine Oil

Change Engine Oil Filter

Change Drain Plug Gasket if necessary

Check Engine Running Condition

Check Engine Idle Speed if applicable

Change Spark Plugs

Change Air Filter

Check for Abnormal Engine Noise

Check Fuel System for Leaks

Change Drive Belt

Check Engine Cooling System for Leaks

Change Fuel Filter

Perform Fuel Pressure Test

Change Engine Coolant

Change O2 Sensor/s

B) TRANSMISSION

Change Transmission Fluid (Gearbox)

Check Transmission for Leaks

Check Clutch Condition

Change Clutch Fluid

Change Differential Oil (Diff)

C) STEERING SYSTEM

Check Steering Rack & Pinion Assembly

Check Steering Linkages & Ball Joints

Check Power Steering for Leaks

Change Power Steering Fluid

Check Steering Bellow Condition

D) BRAKE SYSTEM

Check All Brake Pads & Lining Condition / Service All Wheel Brakes as necessary

Check Brake Lines & Hoses Condition

Change Brake Fluid

Check Brake Wheel Cylinder Condition

Check Parking Brake Condition & Service as necessary

E) CHASSIS AND BODY

Check all Shock Absorber Condition

Check Condition of Engine Mountings

Check Aircon Refrigerant Level / Cabin Filter Condition

Check Exhaust System for Leaks

Check Window Operating Condition

Check Wheel Bearings Condition

Check Drive Shaft Joint Condition

Check & Lubricate Door Hinges

Edited by R33GTS25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170396-major-service-checklist/
Share on other sites

MAJOR SERVICE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST

hi R33..

ummm...seems like a lot of 'checks' there mate......maybe the word 'check' would be better replaced with the word 'replace' or 're-new', considering a 'major service'???

Not being smart, just a little curious...

Spit.

Looks fine to me.

Check clutch condition, wouldn't make sense if it said Replace clutch condition. Not being smart....

umm...definate consumables?..ie.belts?, coolant?, plugs?..etc etc..????....is what I was getting at.

C'mon...give me a break!!..it's a MAJOR service being performed here, or is it one of those K-Mart Auto 140 dollar checklists??

Still not being smart though!!!...lol!

SuperSpit to check/replace/renew sense of humour?....check!

Regards,

Spit.

Ill fix it up. I think im missing something, please go over it and let me know.

Hi R33,

Good changes, well done.

Now, that's what I call a check list for a major service on our beautiful cars!!

Well done mate!..I'm printing one off as I write!!

Regards,

Spit.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...