Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently bled the system.

starting at the pump above the rear diff untill fluid came out, closing that and then moving onto the bleed nipple at the transfer case. on and of and on and off untill i had the right levels in the res and untill no air came out. which not much did anyway.

now when driving/under slight acceleration there is always about 1-3kg m or whatever the reading is. it will only go to 0 when i back off completly

is this how the system is ment to work? it feels a bit better than before. and alot more responsive..

:/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170507-attessa-system-for-gtr/
Share on other sites

i get about that under medium accel (in a straight line)

slight (just on pedal) accel i get 0 (in a straight line)

cornering tends to bring it back down to 0 until i lose traction (in rear)

hope that explains it a little

RellikZephyr

i get about that under medium accel (in a straight line)

slight (just on pedal) accel i get 0 (in a straight line)

cornering tends to bring it back down to 0 until i lose traction (in rear)

hope that explains it a little

RellikZephyr

ahh thanks. it appears i have bled it alrite then!

slight on pedal i am at around 3 in straight line

:P

ahh, i just got new wheels. same size front/back but different tyres. the rears are a bit worn!

Thats your problem. Try switching the fronts to the rear and vice versa. Should resolve your issue.

Cheers,

Dan :P

I found the exact same thing when I swapped out the rear tyres last wk- as little as 3mm less rear diameter is enough to trigger the ATESSA. Like Angus I'm showing around 1-3-5Kg/m on normal driving & the car responds fantastically when thrown aggressively into corners etc but I am concerned as to what this is doing to the 4WD clutches in the transfer case.

Does anyone have definite knowledge on whether this is damaging or not??

I found the exact same thing when I swapped out the rear tyres last wk- as little as 3mm less rear diameter is enough to trigger the ATESSA. Like Angus I'm showing around 1-3-5Kg/m on normal driving & the car responds fantastically when thrown aggressively into corners etc but I am concerned as to what this is doing to the 4WD clutches in the transfer case.

Does anyone have definite knowledge on whether this is damaging or not??

this is exactly my concern and question!

how good and how responive is the system now!! i'm really enjoing driving the car! this is going from using A048's all the time so i am noticing how the system actually works!

worn tyres that affect rolling diameter will indeed affect attessa , 3-5 mm is enough to cause problems

but all gtrs will throw some torque to the fronts under hard straight line acceleration

if it happens under slight acceleration/cruising then your rolling diameter is the 1st thing to look at

Yeah we know WHY it's doing it, we're both concerned as to what the consequences are.

It really has transformed the way the car drives, & def in a good way but if it's going to be at the expense of the transfer-case clutches then it's obviously not such a good thing.....

yeah rolling diameter :D.....i dont know if it was the cause of a seal on my front diff (right side)to go as the result of having slightly smaller rolling diameter tyre on the rear, and having the above mentioned symptoms??? A bit of a s#^$ to do when done at home on stands. I do have one of the controllers from Duncan..so

does anyone know if having the controller switched to constant RWD only all the time when driving, would it affect anything???I know GTR run in RWD until attessa detects wheel spin in the rear.

But my logic was if i didnt have the attessa working (constant RWD) the leak in the diff wouldnt be as bad, until i got the seal done.

Would anyone else be having the same problem??

I can't see how running in RWD only will help. The power transfer is done at the gearbox & the drive shafts, prop shaft & front diff centre are always rotating when the vehicle is motion, whether there is torque being put to them or not

As for R32/33 transfer cases, I believe they are the same animal but the ACTIVATION is different between the two. The ATESSA computer in the R33 also processes information 4x faster & the combination of the two is why the R32 is in most cases a more "tail-happy" car to drive compared to 33's & 34's.

I'm going to pull the fuse untill further notice about this! but i am loving how the car is driving at the moment.

i've tried to use my field torque controler with knobs turned all the way to rear as possible but it has no effect.

Wow, this is the first time i've ever driven the car without semi's and the system disabled.

4th gear, 80km/h (freeway onramp) around 3000 rpm. plant foot. wait till about 4000ish and i get some serious wheel spin at around 90-100kmh hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
    • Howdy all,   I had my rb25det S2 rebuilt and finally started it today but have run into a few issues  Engine sounds like a a diesel easiest way to summarise like small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted  The engine builder repainted the engine cover leaving no where for me to go off with lining up the CAS so have it as central as possible so not sure it that could be affecting it?, changed the gearbox fluid too but won’t seem to go into gear when running, and only 1 to 4 when off having a hard time finding 5th and reverse anyone got any ideas or a base for me to start off? much appreciated 
    • Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
    • Glad it eventually came out Duncan!   I believe that might be 040. 044 is the inline pump, so has screw fittings in and out. 040 is more just drop it in fuel and the bottom is "open" (mesh) from my memory 
×
×
  • Create New...