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Attessa System For Gtr

Angus Smart
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Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

I've recently bled the system.

starting at the pump above the rear diff untill fluid came out, closing that and then moving onto the bleed nipple at the transfer case. on and of and on and off untill i had the right levels in the res and untill no air came out. which not much did anyway.

now when driving/under slight acceleration there is always about 1-3kg m or whatever the reading is. it will only go to 0 when i back off completly

is this how the system is ment to work? it feels a bit better than before. and alot more responsive..

:/

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RellikZephyr Proficient

RellikZephyr

Posted
Posted

i get about that under medium accel (in a straight line)

slight (just on pedal) accel i get 0 (in a straight line)

cornering tends to bring it back down to 0 until i lose traction (in rear)

hope that explains it a little

RellikZephyr

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i get about that under medium accel (in a straight line)

slight (just on pedal) accel i get 0 (in a straight line)

cornering tends to bring it back down to 0 until i lose traction (in rear)

hope that explains it a little

RellikZephyr

ahh thanks. it appears i have bled it alrite then!

slight on pedal i am at around 3 in straight line

:P

JonesyGTR Community Regular

JonesyGTR

Posted
Posted
ahh, i just got new wheels. same size front/back but different tyres. the rears are a bit worn!

Thats your problem. Try switching the fronts to the rear and vice versa. Should resolve your issue.

Cheers,

Dan :P

Lunatikk Rising Star

Lunatikk

Posted
Posted

I found the exact same thing when I swapped out the rear tyres last wk- as little as 3mm less rear diameter is enough to trigger the ATESSA. Like Angus I'm showing around 1-3-5Kg/m on normal driving & the car responds fantastically when thrown aggressively into corners etc but I am concerned as to what this is doing to the 4WD clutches in the transfer case.

Does anyone have definite knowledge on whether this is damaging or not??

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I found the exact same thing when I swapped out the rear tyres last wk- as little as 3mm less rear diameter is enough to trigger the ATESSA. Like Angus I'm showing around 1-3-5Kg/m on normal driving & the car responds fantastically when thrown aggressively into corners etc but I am concerned as to what this is doing to the 4WD clutches in the transfer case.

Does anyone have definite knowledge on whether this is damaging or not??

this is exactly my concern and question!

how good and how responive is the system now!! i'm really enjoing driving the car! this is going from using A048's all the time so i am noticing how the system actually works!

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted

worn tyres that affect rolling diameter will indeed affect attessa , 3-5 mm is enough to cause problems

but all gtrs will throw some torque to the fronts under hard straight line acceleration

if it happens under slight acceleration/cruising then your rolling diameter is the 1st thing to look at

Lunatikk Rising Star

Lunatikk

Posted
Posted

Yeah we know WHY it's doing it, we're both concerned as to what the consequences are.

It really has transformed the way the car drives, & def in a good way but if it's going to be at the expense of the transfer-case clutches then it's obviously not such a good thing.....

godzl1975 Experienced

godzl1975

Posted
Posted

yeah rolling diameter :D.....i dont know if it was the cause of a seal on my front diff (right side)to go as the result of having slightly smaller rolling diameter tyre on the rear, and having the above mentioned symptoms??? A bit of a s#^$ to do when done at home on stands. I do have one of the controllers from Duncan..so

does anyone know if having the controller switched to constant RWD only all the time when driving, would it affect anything???I know GTR run in RWD until attessa detects wheel spin in the rear.

But my logic was if i didnt have the attessa working (constant RWD) the leak in the diff wouldnt be as bad, until i got the seal done.

Would anyone else be having the same problem??

Lunatikk Rising Star

Lunatikk

Posted
Posted

I can't see how running in RWD only will help. The power transfer is done at the gearbox & the drive shafts, prop shaft & front diff centre are always rotating when the vehicle is motion, whether there is torque being put to them or not

As for R32/33 transfer cases, I believe they are the same animal but the ACTIVATION is different between the two. The ATESSA computer in the R33 also processes information 4x faster & the combination of the two is why the R32 is in most cases a more "tail-happy" car to drive compared to 33's & 34's.

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm going to pull the fuse untill further notice about this! but i am loving how the car is driving at the moment.

i've tried to use my field torque controler with knobs turned all the way to rear as possible but it has no effect.

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow, this is the first time i've ever driven the car without semi's and the system disabled.

4th gear, 80km/h (freeway onramp) around 3000 rpm. plant foot. wait till about 4000ish and i get some serious wheel spin at around 90-100kmh hahaha

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