Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if current owners of the series 2 are happy with the ne0 25 power and potential wise, or given the chance would go the 26. bearing in mind its wagon not being tuned for the track. How much is enough?.... thats probably a silly question but comments please. Is the extra costs for rebuilds etc worth it for this car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170535-neo-25-or-the-26/
Share on other sites

the twin turbo isnt the only thing with the autech version .. so you do get more for your money other than just a stronger motor.

so thats something else to keep in mind!

also bear in mind that the stagea fuel economy is " thirsty at best "" and I Cant see the rb26dett being any less thirsty

( could cost you a small fortune if its your daily driver! )

Dude, of coarse everyone would go the 26. Its a 26.

Put it in Skyline terms, do you want a GTST or a GTR?

Think of it this way. GTR motor + boost + PFC + exhaust = 250awkw

GTST with exhaust, pfc, cooler, exhaust, turbo, cams and more ... =250awkw.

Yes, I understand that, but its more a question of economics and reality/necessity, than desire. if 250 kw is all you want then the 25 is better cos it cost you 10000 grand less, take the turbo and cams out of that and your ahead. Ok you havent got the brembos.

Probably a bad question.

Yes, I understand that, but its more a question of economics and reality/necessity, than desire. if 250 kw is all you want then the 25 is better cos it cost you 10000 grand less, take the turbo and cams out of that and your ahead. Ok you havent got the brembos.

Probably a bad question.

Or the GTR suspension, drivetrain, extra body strengthening, pizzazzzzzzzzz, wow factor :laughing-smiley-014: toys, toys, toys, toys, yoohoo.

I love my Stagea, sorry.

Or the GTR suspension, drivetrain, extra body strengthening, pizzazzzzzzzzz, wow factor :laughing-smiley-014: toys, toys, toys, toys, yoohoo.

I love my Stagea, sorry.

Add: comparing RS S manual which im led to believe has the gtr running gear.

Happy to hear you love your stagea, 260RS is worth it in your opinion, thats great.

Running costs with a 26 generally are higher.

As you wouldnt put a stock turbo'd 26 in if you have it out of the car, and then you might aswell at least freshen the motor for safety sake.

Where the 25, hi-flow turbo and a few bits and away you go as the NEO is gonna be a LOT newer than the 26 for the equivalent price.

the question is do you want a fast wagon or a slower wagon? if you want a fast want then go for the Autech and i htink Tim got one for sale. Hes just got it and wanted to sell it away change of taste. If you are content with 200kw@wheels then gor for the RS4s.

the question is do you want a fast wagon or a slower wagon? if you want a fast want then go for the Autech and i htink Tim got one for sale. Hes just got it and wanted to sell it away change of taste. If you are content with 200kw@wheels then gor for the RS4s.

Who is Tim and how much does he want for it...let me know or get him to shoot me a PM

they still aren't race cars tho.. remember it's still a wagon - If you want to do stupid crazy things (yay*goteam for awesome) then get the autech and have a wagon that is not a wagon, or drive a waogn unlike a wagon - you get the drift

Or get the RS4 and get a wagon that still is a wagon but is a fun wagon nonetheless - an awesome still - but not an autech and still a wagon

They still weight shoite loads - no matter what one you get :P The still ahve aerodynamics of a tuissue box - no matter which one you get

They are still domestic (albeit domestic disorder style domestic) no matter which one you get.

Given the choice i would have gone the 260RS - but i do not have that much money :D ... yet look at paying double the price for the 260RS

Am i making sense???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...
    • I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.
    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
×
×
  • Create New...