Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Front End For A 32

R32_dori
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
lucifer Enthusiast

lucifer

Posted
Posted

Gday

Not really answering ur question here but i'm also doing the conversion although i'm converting the front into a GT-T no point putting a GTR front on when it simply isnt a GTR and certaintly doesn't go like one but anyway the only thing i've been told is that u need to make up a bracket to hold the headlights or something like that!

good luck with the conversion!

Rissole Contributor

Rissole

Posted
Posted

i havent seen many in oz cos its probably not possible?

If it was we'd have as many of them as we do strawberry faces..

i think guards are completely differnt size etc , wont bolt up, even with bracket...

best buying a bee r kit like lynden reynolds has on his hott wheelworx beast.

And yes it is worth the money.. :D

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

Now.. from what I remeber.. There is a place in Camberra, called J Racing that I THINK to packages.. if not them.. I also think its DMD that might also do it.. not entirely sure. Theres a fleet of Purple/pink drift cars, one of which has an R34 face. Im sure someone very soon will elaborate.

You could always get a front cut and use the pannels.. See if you can pick up a front cut without an engine (possible?) and just use the bodywork. Or the cheapest front cut, sell engine and gear box that way you cover some costs and then just use the guards etc.

You could always get aftermarket wide body guards, mould the head lights and just slap on a R34 front bar.

Just for some info:

R32 Track Front [in. (mm)] 58.3 (1480)

R34 Track Front [in. (mm)] 58.3 (1480)

32 4whore Experienced

32 4whore

Posted
Posted
i havent seen many in oz cos its probably not possible?

If it was we'd have as many of them as we do strawberry faces..

i think guards are completely differnt size etc , wont bolt up, even with bracket...

best buying a bee r kit like lynden reynolds has on his hott wheelworx beast.

And yes it is worth the money.. :(

Linden was given the front kit by his Sponsor Viva Garage. His is a genuine Bee R Kit though.

And there is now 2 R324's driving around SA and one R334 also.

I would recomend buying a genuine kit. With wider rear gaurs so it doesnt go wide then skinny a the front doors.

SO its up to you but the whole kit costs alot of money. Sooooooooooooooooo save ur 5c's mate as you will need them.

R32_dori Enthusiast

R32_dori

Posted
  • Author
Posted

viva garage only sell the kit as a full conversion not as seperate parts soo if u were wanting the fenders nd fit a different bumper its a no go

the fenders, bumper, bonnet, are all made specifically to suit soo other bumpers will not fit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...