Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I read through quite abit of the '$22 boost controller' topic, anyway I went ahead and bought one off ebay.

Unfortunetly alot of the pics in that topic no longer work due to its age, and the few that do work mostly show the stock boost solenoid (which I don't have as the previous owner I think had a bleed valve but later removed it)

Anyway I just want to confirm how it connects. I took a pic of the lines where my solenoid USED to be. I have one line that leads no where and has a screw in the end (highlighted red). From reading, it used to be connected to the solenoid yes? And is no longer needed?

Do I cut the line I highlighted green and fit one end each to the 2 joins of the turbotech? Or am I an idiot and have the wrong line completely?

lines.jpg

okay its simple.

See how you got the screw ? and it screws in ? the hose from your boost pipe goes to the one that will push air against it and the other one goes back to the wastegate actuator.

if you cant work it out PM me and give me your phone number and il call you and explain it to you

okay its simple.

See how you got the screw ? and it screws in ? the hose from your boost pipe goes to the one that will push air against it and the other one goes back to the wastegate actuator.

if you cant work it out PM me and give me your phone number and il call you and explain it to you

:worship: sorry dude but I didn't understand any of that haha.

I guess its more complicated than I assumed :banana:

I dunno, if someone would care to draw a diagram or something might help explain it better.

EDIT: Just saw your diagram.

Okay so the green line in my pic is the one from the intercooler pipe and the red one with the screw in it, i remove the screw and attach it the other bit on the turbotech?

Edited by Lachlan33

:laughing-smiley-014:

Enjoy mate.

:worship: sorry dude but I didn't understand any of that haha.

I guess its more complicated than I assumed :banana:

I dunno, if someone would care to draw a diagram or something might help explain it better.

okay

check where the red one goes.. if its on the old boost solonoid then leave it blocked.

Also dont unscrew it at all. leave it. the green one with the clamp you can see is the intercooler pipe. cut that hose and put it inbetween the one hose.

if you get what i mean.. that hose you got going to the intercooler pipe (green) should be going to the wastegate actuator. double check that first. if it is then CUT the green hose and put the turbo tech so they kinda join up again but using my diagram to make sure the right one goes to the boost pipe.

ive confused you? ok here is a better set of instructions.

Forget the red one exists. Leave it there and forget it..

Cut the green line with cutters 4 cm's down the line. Put the hose thats been cut commin from the boost pipe onto the turbotech diagram side that says "intercooler pipe" put the other hose thats been cut on the other side of the controller.

Thats it :worship:

Ok.

The red one (with the screw) im pretty sure USED to goto the boost solenoid which is gone. (Previous owner removed it)

If the green one runs from the IC pipe to the actuator, I simply cut it in half and fit the turbotech inbetween so its rejoined. Yes? Just gotta follow your diagram and make sure I attach the right ends to the turbotech. Got it. If im understanding you correctly.

EXACTLY!!

Let ne know how you go.. REMEMBER...

You turn it in to run more boost and out to run less.. you only have to turn it less then a quarter of a turn each time to get a 3 - 5 psi boost increase. its very touchy

Edited by Guilt-Toy
  • 2 weeks later...

Okay I fitted the controller this arvo, few things:

Ive got the bolt wound out as far as it can go without falling out, yet even with like half throttle the stock guage goes PAST +7 (which is FAR more boost than I want)

Ive tripple checked that ive got it round the right way (it is)

I took it out again and played around by blowing through the end and winding the bolt to see if it was making a difference and it is. With the ball bearing and spring removed it runs stock boost no worries, spring and ball in = massive boost.

Couple questions:

1: Does it matter what way round the spring goes? like Flat end against bearing or curvy end?

2: For those who fit it, did you notice a very audible change in the noise your turbo made? Mine sounded quite different and I reached +7 so im wondering if the wastegate is opening at all or im just making infinite boost

I havent dont a full plant and held it on boost, because it goes so high I get scared and back off for fear of destroying the turbo.

Any sugestions?

i have a question that may or may not be appropriate here so don't shoot me -

if you have a controller that has the tee-piece that goes to the 'in cabin/remote' controller (the tubing supplied wasn't long enough to go in cabin that's for sure) do you connect the tube that most people block off with a screw to the 'exhaust' outlet on the boost controller?

made_guy - No idea mate

But I solved my own problem, pulled the whole thing off and refitted it. I think when I put it on I put the tube coming from the IC on then twisted the whole thing to get it in a position to fit the actuator hose, but by doing so im pretty sure i must have twisted the line from the IC without noticing meaning very little air was getting through.

Holds great now, car def has more go. Just waiting for my boost guage to find out exactly what boost im at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...