Throw The Switch

[GODTHRILA]

Hi guys and girls,

I have had dramas with my headlights cutting in and out from time to time. The car is a 32GTR and I have heard of the plug/loom and switch for the headlights to be a design problem with these cars... the wiring and plug teminals are not up to the task of the current draw needed and so they burn up a bit.

Months ago the passenger side headlight (low beam) died and turned out it was the terminals on the plug that needed replacing. Since replacing these things have all been fine... BUT... now the drivers side has died (low beam) and the sparky has said that the plug terminals are all ok, it is the actuall switch that is now causing the problem... not the terminals or plug or wiring loom.

Has anyone else experienced similar problems and come up with a good PERMINANT fix? My bro works at nissan in the parts department and can get me a brand new switch, but at well over $200 mates rates, I'm not that keen, and I'm also not keen on using a 2nd hand one as it's probably got the same/similar issues (or will have down the track).

Help... I need somebody... help *in my best Beatles singing voice*

[Gazee]

you can wire up another switch seperate from the stalk?

[GODTHRILA]

you can wire up another switch seperate from the stalk?

I could do that but I want to retain the use of the factory switch... There is already enough extra electronics and switches in the car, but thanks for the sugestion anyway.

[infamous_t]

I've been told for some odd reason the headlight's switch doesn't use a relay, running full current back to dash(bad, overworks switch)... so either way wire in a relay (from memory it is negative switch (odd for neg. ground vehicle).

Try Ramis (stÖrmy) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=148692 , i don't think he sold his whole cluster (inc switch), and think he only wants $40.

[hazerb30]

yeh mine are dodgy too in r32 gtr. Its the switch. Sometimes i have to turn the lights on and off a few times and it comes good.

And there are no relays in our cars for the headlights. it makes no sense nissan did this. Best to put relays in so full current gets to the lights, means brighter lights and less work the switch has to do.

There is a wiring diagram on these forums somewhere.

[GODTHRILA]

Thanks for the input guys... a little more searching found that the light circuits definately DON'T use relays so the full current for low and high beams is running through the swtich... bad news.

Changing or fixing the switch is only a partial fix... the current will still flow through the switch and so will burn out what ever replacement you use. The only sure way to fix the problem is to remove the current from the switch by using relays. I have attached a circuit diagram I found on the forums so its just a few wires and 2 relays.

I am going to rig this up over the next few days and probably fit it into the car over this weekend... I'll try and take some good pictures and let everyone know what wires should go where... I would recommend everyone to make this mod before your lights play up, as it is inevitable that it will happen to all these switchs... unless you only drive during the day?

[Cubes]

A really easy fix that I've done and has continued to work for the last 5 years is to solder the lugs together.

Difficult to explain.. Crack open the switch remove the contacts and solder the appropriate little lugs together.

The only down side is now my high beam stays on with the low beam. I say down side as it 'may' overheat something but given its been 5years of use with nothing blown or burnt out I'd say its safe.

I just replaced my first set of head light globes too. 5years isn't too bad I feel.

I've been meaning to wire up a relay setup for the headlights.. It is the better way to do it.

[heller44]

Don't forget to put a fuse in the feed from the battery.