Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Tried searching for this one but couldn't come up with anything!

I'm trying to fit in a 2 cubic foot subwoofer box in the boot, behind all existing finishing panels, etc.

Next to the battery at the moment is a space of almost 1 cubic foot... the rest of the box will be fibreglassed around the right-hand strut tower, etc.

What I want to do is shift the battery holder as far to the left as possible to give me the maximum amount of room to play with. From factory it is bolted in between the ribs in the boot floor, it looks like I can shift it over "one rib" to the left.

Has anyone tried this? Are there any fuel lines, cables, etc behind that floor panelling that I'll have to move before drilling?

Thanks for any help you can provide!

Cooks44.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17083-moving-battery-in-r33/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest RedLineGTR

i agree with hippy...

says that it sealed but you can still add distilled water if needed to certain cells....you just have to take a panel off...i assume its sealed seems like it is and thats what is stated by the company...had it for a while no leaks or anything..seems fine.

  • 3 weeks later...

i fitted an eclipse sub in my 33 it was meant to have a 56 litre or 2 cubic foot enclosure fitted it to the right of the battery and built it out 130 mm towards the boot and across to a custom amp rack that fills in the corner put a bit of dackron in the box and it pumps way better than i thought it would and my mate who is in the car audio field was also shocked......and by the guys this thread did start out as a sub topic not a battery topic if your worried about what battery you want buy a odyssy expensive but can be fitted anywhere

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...