Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone i have only joined this awesome site today, i am selling a bunch of performance parts as i am changing to an RB26 rather than an RB25

I live in Townsville Far North Queensland

Parts include:

Complete RB25DET

Specs are rebuilt with Arias Forged Pistons and Nismo Rods, ACL Black bearings throughout

Balanced Standard crankshaft

Machined block

Port and polished head with HKS Valves, Valve springs, Retainers etc

N1 oil and water pump

Splitfire coil packs 3months old $300

Engine would be happy to Sell for $3500 ono has done 14000km

Also have a Z32 AFM with Tomei Plug will includ K&N Filter with adapter aswell for $350 (filter brand new and Z32 3months old)

Also have Hybrid Front Mount intercooler with custom piping with blitz BOV and adapter welded on, will include standard BOV block off plate aswell as quality vacuum line $700

Custom Split Dump and Front pipe $275

Blitz 52mm white face boost guage for $175 perfect condition

Autometer Monster tacho with shift light for $125 perfect condition

Stock Sideskirts awesome condition $100

Stock Rear pods for $50 grest condition

Have pics of most things however if pics are not there i will update with pics shortly

PM me or txt me on 0414476623

Having trouble uploading pics, so email me and will email pics back to you

Edited by Weapon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170911-performance-parts-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Also amongst sifting through all the stuff in my garage, i have found stock front dmapers with Koni springs that are in good working order when came off the car, however will get Fulcrum to check them out, also have a Eclipse CD/MP3 headunit approx 12months old

Suspension $100

Eclipse Head Unit $150

I also have 2 exhaust systems that are both Trust exhausts that i am willing to depart with if interested PM for price and pics

You got any pics of the dump/front pipe?? it it for a standard turbo and is it stainless steel and split or bellmouth?

If you have pics of it email them to [email protected] thanks

Edited by /2on

In my quest for space in my garage i have also found a standard series 1 bonnet and boot, bonnet has 3 stone chips on it and is straight with no damage. Boot needs holes from where a gtr wing used to be (thanks to some jealous punks) other than that is straight and undamaged aswell as a stock rear bar all in wine red metallic colour

Bonnet $175

Boot $100

Rear Bar $ 100

Pm for pics

Also i have diliberated over this next item as i was in process of puting a V8 into it ( i know its bad but it was a Nissan V8 lol) I have 1992 Nissan Skyline R332 GTST, 5 speed manual, Black RB20. Engine needs some work as it has been ripped out but is back in, full rolling chassis, Just taking expressions of interest at the moment as i am not sure if i want to get rid of it

ahhh i have just had a truck rock up and he has dropped off my RB26, and i can't fit it in the garage so its in my living room.... Open to any offers on all of these things

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...