Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help S2 R33

cruisin at a constant speed ie around carparks the car sudders and loses all power

and rolls for 3.4 sec then jolts back into life sometime its quite violent

what would cause an ignition/fuel? cut full loss of power

only momentary 3 -4 secs at a time

replaced o2 sensor

replaced cas

replaced afm

replaced plugs

tested coils

timed engine 15 deg

set idle

stock apart from a power fc

Edited by juls33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171007-ignition-keeps-cutting-out-no-power/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a fuel cut to me, whats the condition of your fuel pump and injectors? What about your fuel filter ( i know its dumb but check it anyway ) Does it only do it at that specific load point? Or other areas of the tune? Have you checked your ignitor chip out? So it only does it while crusing slowly? If so sounds like a tuner hasnt tuned the first 3-4 lines of the power FC Fuel map properly, maybe has removed the fuel in those areas to avoid reversion richness... have seen it done before as strange as it sounds.

thanxs for the reply

umm pump is stock fuel filter is about a month old a/f are 13.2 donw to 11.9 at wot

last time i had on the dyno in feb its been doing it since then he could find the prob on the dyno

yes low load low speed say first second and third first five by five block

also has a slight surge at high speed like on the highway

where is my ignitior chip the series two have the ignitors in each coil so i would be not a coil prob ?

the numbers are 125 3x5 and then 129 to complete 5x5 block

I had a similiar issue once. Was a bad connector on the afm signal wire. I previously had a safc in the car; removed the bullet connector soldered the wire and all good.

I found the problem by using the pfc's graph signal trace type option. I could see the afm signal dropping to 0v occasionally; that confirmed the problem. :)

please answer the following

has it always been a problem or just only started occuring?

does it ever occur during acceleration?

when it does happen do you loose power (volts) too or does the engine just stall?

if you look at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK when the problem occurs, what do you see?

i would say based on what you have described that its not tune related, it would be pretty hard to tune it like that

do all the lights go dim etc, have u got a battery guage, if so check it when the car has the problem

or even look at MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, BATTVOLT and see what it does when the problem occurs

have u got the stock ecu?

put it in for 5 minutes and see if you can replicate the problem with it

if you can, then run stock ecu diag with consult and it should tell you straight away

thanxs for the reply

has been a problem since the power fc was installed (engine was transplated from another car all at the same time)

not under accel at all

batt voltage is good engine rpm just goes to zero no power you can even pump the accel pedal nothing at all

tps read a change but engine does nothing

no change with anything at time of fault

the stock ecu has other probs it runs reallt rich so that doesnt help much

it only happens at the low load low rpm when the same point is being used for say 400m rolling around car parks for example

It might be a "wear spot" in the TPS which is telling the ECU that it should "fuel cut on overrun". When it happens, move the acc pedal, see if it kicks back into life. Also, try and borrow a mate's TPS and see if you can replicate the problem.

ive had this problem. it is most definetly the AFM.

took weeks to snoop out.

swap it with a mates and test it

He said he's replaced the AFM. So unless its is another dodgy AFM and/or dodgy wiring then that isn't his problem. I have this problem with my R32 GTS-T atm and have had an ECU diagnostic tool plugged into it and the CAS reading goes crazy when it loses all power. My ECU also had an AFM fault so i cleared it and went for a drive and it came back. I'm going to change the CAS asap and will prob change to a Z32 AFM soon. You've said you have checked and replaced both of these though, there's a thread still going atm with a problem a bit like your and he changed the fuel pressure regulator and it fixed his problem so you could try that maybe. Let us know how you go mate!

Cheers

Stricko

yeah i have replaced both the afm and the cas

a big improvment in car response when i did

however it still has the weird cut out point

when it cuts out the engine responds to no input (accel pedal)

or otherwise

it has to be a wiring fault im going to strip it down on the weekend

  • 1 month later...

yeah i had similar problem and it was the harness plug on side of ecu not being straight, 10mm bolt was done up tight but it tends to bow like sxr said.... loosened the bolt and straightened the plug, pushed it on hard at both ends as i was doing bolt up and no problems... mate had same sympton but different overall problem, his was dodgy afm signal wire connection, kinda doesnt like when u twine the wires together n tape em up, so i stripped it all back and put connectors on it and no problem...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...