Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just yesterday I could smell coolant while driving and didnt think too much of it but then today I noticed my shoe wet after about a 30 min drive to work and I then looked up under near the pedals and noticed a few drops of coolant coming from somewhere

Where would it be? some pipe cracked? What should i be looking for to replace?

Could someone please give me some advice

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171053-coolant-leaking-under-dash/
Share on other sites

Update just had another look

Near the pedals I look towards the center about in line with the gearbox and I can see coolant sitting in there? Seems to be sort of coming from there? Also when I was driving I could hear it makin hissin sounds....

Anyone?

when its coming from the centre its usually the heater core leaking.

you've got 2 options here:

1 - rip out your dash to get the heater core out (someone has done it without taking the dash out though).

2 - bypass the heater by running a pipe between the feed and return to the heater core. this will disable your heating though.

if i was to go by the second option as a quickfix just to stop the leaking how would it be done? blocking it through the engine bay somewhere? is it easy to get to and block? just need the car back on road and will rip out my dash in a few weeks to properly fix it.

i replaced the heater core on my sons r33 . we used the core from a 300zx cost 190 bucks brand new from natrad .

we pulled the whole dash out tho as we needed to fix the clicking actuator for the air con . it looks pretty daunting when ya start pulling it apart we marked the elect plugs so we knew what ones went where. it took most of the week end but some places wanted around 800 bucks to fit it

For those who are going to run into this problem in the future, here's a picture of what i've done:

hcb.jpg

The hose is SV21 Camry heater hose (was a nicely shaped bend), held on with 2 clamps where the coolant enters to make sure it doesn't come out. Haven't had any problems in about 3 weeks of daily driving (too busy to get around to replacing the core).

FYI, Nissan quoted me ~$350 for a replacement heater core.

Edited by govich
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...