Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I've got a basically stock 92 r32 gts-t. Months and months ago i got a manual boost controller and turned the boost up to about 12-13psi and more recently i got a 3 inch exhaust with split dump and high flow cat.

It has always run great and loved to be thrashed. But last week on a f**king cold night, i gave it a hit (once the engine was fully warmed) and as the boost started to build, the engine choked. I lost all power and it felt like i was basically just rolling. I had to come off the accelerator to get the power back. This would happen late at nights and early in the morning when it is incredibly cold, but during the day it runs perfectly.

Me and my friend initially thought this was a matter of the stock fuel pump and injectors not being able to match the colder denser air now going into the engine. But the last few days i haven't been able to replicate the problem. It seems to be running fine even on the coldest nights.

What's going on? Why did i have this problem one week, but not the next?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171190-power-cut-on-cold-nights/
Share on other sites

did the power cut happen above 4000rpm and was it a missfiring all the up the rev range?

I had similar problem and mechanic said it was crank angle sensor.

It could also be your coilpacks not handling the higher power from the dense air. Check coilpacks for hairline cracks.

sounds like boost cut to me. just means your hitting a point on your ECU map that it considers dangerous and cuts power to the engine. time for aftermarket management, or just take out ~1 PSI to avoid it. if there are other symptoms (like missfiiring through the rev range) could be the coilpacks.. but from what youve said, its just boost cut.

fuel cut wind down the boost so it doesnt cut under all condition i.e cold nights

12 + psi is alot without a cooler on a cold night it could easily spike to over 1 bar

So if down the track i get a cooler, the problem is gonna happen more often?

Im surprised you are running 12psi with only catback and no fmic.

It's preferred that these 2 are modified before any boost is increased because you may be causing a lot of harm.

I suggest drop it back down to 10psi and get supporting mods before you start increasing boost

Im surprised you are running 12psi with only catback and no fmic.

It's preferred that these 2 are modified before any boost is increased because you may be causing a lot of harm.

I suggest drop it back down to 10psi and get supporting mods before you start increasing boost

Hey, I've got a basically stock 92 r32 gts-t. Months and months ago i got a manual boost controller and turned the boost up to about 12-13psi and more recently i got a 3 inch exhaust with split dump and high flow cat.

I got turbo back exhaust.

Just trying to decide which path to take atm.

I really wanna get an fmic, but if i do that then i definately have to get an ecu. And after that i'm gonna want more and more power because i know i can have it. So it's gonna cost me alot in the long run.

Alternatively i could turn down the boost and save my money. But stock power is sooooo boring.

Getting an fmic does not warrant an ecu...although some sort of ecu will probably be best...if you keep your boost to 12psi...i don't see any problem...provided you are not running mixtures that are too lean...have you got a fuel pump yet? if not...i'd get one asap...even before considering a fmic...fuel pumps on 32s are VERY old now and will most likely be on their way out....

Edited by limpus

Can the power drain on the battery cause this?

I have had this happen to me...twice so far.

On cold nights....my heater,power fc,AVCR ,air purifier..stereo/amp/sub...lights...are all on.....

Can the drain in the power and a bad battery be at fault.

The battery in the boot is tiny and due to workshop downtime has been drained at least 10 times....

The only thing I think that keeps it firing every morning is the turbo timer charging it the night before..lol

It sounds like it is electrical...if you know your battery is good...check your coils....spark plugs.

This can also be a AFM fault.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying.  With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down.  Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol. 
    • The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 🥴
×
×
  • Create New...