Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed today that the factory stagea alloys are in fact lightweight forged units.

Although a little on the narrow side at only 7" wide , a true performance upgrade is going to have to be forged. Will have to see how well the 205's cope with planned power increases.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171211-changing-rims-think-twice/
Share on other sites

OK I can categorically tell you this as a fact. I had 18" 235's on and went back to the stocker 15" with 205's

The amount of grip I lost was phenominal! And not just in one place, lost in acceleration, braking, cornering.

The 235's I had on had SOOO much more grip!

And dont even start with me and how the 205's performed in the wet................ Only thing keeping them on is that I have not yet worn through them, which is surprising, going to a skidpan in July but............. :thumbsup:

Should have clarified a tad more for some.

At present I have no issues with traction at all with the 205 tyres (this includes corenering), so I don't need wider rims to increase grip right now.

Put simply going for a heavier rim & tyre combo 'generally' means;

* slower accelleration

* slower decelleration

* poorer handling

* poorer braking

* decreased fuel ecconomy

* increased load on drivetrain

yokotas13,

The only advantage for me going from 7inch to 9inch wide rims is 'bling' (not knocking the bling ,just not as important to me). Hope that helps clarify a little :blush:

you would be suprised at how much difference there is in handling around corners with high profile and low profile tyres, the low profile are wayyy less prone to rolling around and making the car feel like its on jelly :thumbsup: so 17s or 18s with 35 profile etc will be wayyy better than 15 or 16s with 55 profile.

ummm NO... going to 235 or 255 and bigger size rim (so lets say 17 instead of 15's or 16's[optional factory wheel] are going to give you

.more traction (braking, accelerating, cornering WHATEVER!!) because of more contact with the ground

.less tyre roll on cornering (cause you have less tyre wall on which to roll)

.The mags i borrowed off my mate for a few days were noticably lighter than the stock ones... so it makes everything yuou just said a moot point.

Edited by captinsane
ummm NO... going to 235 or 255 and bigger size rim (so lets say 17 instead of 15's or 16's[optional factory wheel] are going to give you

.more traction (braking, accelerating, cornering WHATEVER!!) because of more contact with the ground

.less tyre roll on cornering (cause you have less tyre wall on which to roll)

.The mags i borrowed off my mate for a few days were noticably lighter than the stock ones... so it makes everything yuou just said a moot point.

Hi,

Couple of things;

I don't want to start a pointless argument about tyres and handling, there are plenty of books written and people about to ask. I was trying to point out that perhaps some stageas have these 'forged' alloy rims and that they are more valuable than most might realise.

As it's pretty common in my experience to hear similar things to what you are saying about tyres I can only try and suggest the info you have is somewhat incomplete and a little incorrect. A big patch of rubber contacting the road is great but, thats not the actual goal nor is it by itself the fastest way to that goal.

Racing tyres and for that matter any decent brand of road tyre, have rather good sidewalls as a feature of each tyre whether they be a small 205 16 50 series like the ones I have or a 255 18 40 series (actually they both have exactly the same sidewall height of 102mm -- suprised?). The 'radial roll' you reffer to isn't a bad issue on any well matched set of tyres and rims. The sidewalls do alot more FOR handling and traction (corners and straight line) than most realise.

Do a little reading and have a chat to Sydneykid or someone who sets up race cars about the topic, you can really benifit from it.

For the record I will be happy to demonstrate how my 'povo' 16 inch forged alloys equiped with a good set of rubber outperform the 'bolt on boy' patrol with 18x10 cast alloys be they jap or bobjane ones, some time in the not too distant future (again).

Happy to take more technical rebutal's anytime :thumbsup:

Hi,

Couple of things;

I don't want to start a pointless argument about tyres and handling, there are plenty of books written and people about to ask. I was trying to point out that perhaps some stageas have these 'forged' alloy rims and that they are more valuable than most might realise.

As it's pretty common in my experience to hear similar things to what you are saying about tyres I can only try and suggest the info you have is somewhat incomplete and a little incorrect. A big patch of rubber contacting the road is great but, thats not the actual goal nor is it by itself the fastest way to that goal.

Racing tyres and for that matter any decent brand of road tyre, have rather good sidewalls as a feature of each tyre whether they be a small 205 16 50 series like the ones I have or a 255 18 40 series (actually they both have exactly the same sidewall height of 102mm -- suprised?). The 'radial roll' you reffer to isn't a bad issue on any well matched set of tyres and rims. The sidewalls do alot more FOR handling and traction (corners and straight line) than most realise.

Do a little reading and have a chat to Sydneykid or someone who sets up race cars about the topic, you can really benifit from it.

For the record I will be happy to demonstrate how my 'povo' 16 inch forged alloys equiped with a good set of rubber outperform the 'bolt on boy' patrol with 18x10 cast alloys be they jap or bobjane ones, some time in the not too distant future (again).

Happy to take more technical rebutal's anytime :D

but you get more style points with the 18x10 cast chromies :)

question for the rest of you, if lower sidewalls are so great, why do drag cars usually run ~15" rims? and race cars ~16/17" rims?

but you get more style points with the 18x10 cast chromies :D

question for the rest of you, if lower sidewalls are so great, why do drag cars usually run ~15" rims? and race cars ~16/17" rims?

Drag cars need ALL the side wall they can get, to flex on take-off and gain "off the line" traction. Getting them to turn a corner, at speed, is another story.

Race cars that use 15" or 16" rims still have a low profile tyres, with thick side-walls, to help cornering. Smaller rims with low profile tyres equates to a smaller rolling diameter: faster acceleration, better braking and better handling.

Rev210: If you know anyone that runs 255 with 40 profile, on a 18" rim, smack 'em in the back of the head :). I think 18x30x255 is recommended, at worst 18x35x255. :)

Believe it or not; 16" rims with tyres, generally have the same rolling diameter as 18" rims with tyres. You have alot more side-wall flex with 16" tyres, thus resulting in a degraded performance. The extra rubber on a 16" tyre will almost equate to the same weight as the extra alloy on a top quality 18" forged rim. But if you go wider you are also getting more rubber and alloy.

Bottom line: If you are concerned about performance and handling, spend at least $3k on top forged rims and another $3K on good quality rubber. This only really applies to about 5% of enthusiests, as the rest of us will never really justify the differance.

One of the things to keep in mind is:

if your using smaller rims ( say a 16 /17 inch vs 1 18/19 inch rim )

you can afford to buy " better rubber " for the same price as buying cheapish tyres for the larger rims..

so you might be able to get some really well contructed and grippy tyres in a 15/16/17 inch rim when you can only afford el cheapos in the larger rim size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...