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hmm i dont like that little dib on the curve..

But still good figure none-the less..

What gear was that tune in?

wait is yours auto isnt it? how does the dyno reading work?

anyways where did you get your safc2 from?

Stupid apexi :P

im fairly certain its 1.1, its not harmful to the car is it?

0.8 are better.. 1.1 is too big..

I just changed the GTR ones last night.. wooo!

SAFC have aids and are so ghay to tune!

p.s your a/f are all over the place!

With regard to gaps, you go for the largest gap you can use without getting misfiring. Stock gap is 1.1mm but generally when you start upping the boost you need to drop the gap to about 0.8mm. If you have to go lower than that it's because your coilpacks aren't up to the job but in regards to your car Paul, if it's running fine now, great. Don't change anything. Equally don't be surprised if that misfiring comes back at some stage. It will be the coilpacks if it does.

I don't think the AFR's are too bad considering it's just an SAFC. You'll never get a flat line with that.

The dip in the curve is fairly typical of a stock ecu/fuel computer piggyback.

Guilt-Toy - Not denying that's a good tune but it's a happy dyno too.

I don't think the AFR's are too bad considering it's just an SAFC. You'll never get a flat line with that.

The dip in the curve is fairly typical of a stock ecu/fuel computer piggyback.

Thats true, Thats what I don't like about the SAFC's you can never get them perfect..

And in regards to replacing coil packs, i won't have a problem with miss firing as the spark plugs are more than cable of running the car with the standard turbo.

I will only need to replace coil packs say if i do a high flow and start pushing for close to 300rwkw or so...

If u run the right plugs at the right gap, and the right sort of fuel, say good buy to miss firing!

Yeah, in optimum condition the standard coil packs are up to the task of working correctly with low/mild boost. Yours aren't in optimum condition though, they're more than likely 100,000+kms old. You will need to replace the coil packs WHEN (not if) they fail, regardless of whether you're pushing 200rwkw or 300rwkw.

The issue with setting your gap too small is that the spark duration will be very quick and the spark will be weaker. The consequence is high exhaust emission levels due to the mixture not being burned as completely as with a fatter hotter spark. It'll result in an increase in fuel consumption and potentially a minor decrease in power. Rather than 'curing' your misfiring at 1.1mm by gapping directly to 0.7, it's smart to decrease in increments of .1 until the problem goes away. Often tuners wont do this though as it can be time consuming. If you are confident with doing this yourself you may save yourself some petrol..

Exactly what promordial said.. i seriously think gapped to 0.7 is way too much..

Refer to the thread ages ago about plugs. There was a huge debate about it. Someone dig that thread up lol..

so anyone keen on explaining that graph to me..

Or is all the power coming on after 80kms?

lol= no idea with this graph!!

cheers..

Edited by siddr20
Hey homo-spec lol...

My boot is still going to look better than yours at S'n'S

Sif Doof is HOMO Spec :blush:

What are you putting in the boot ?

yeah probably... i dunno if mine is gunna be done by then...

What the...... I hope it will be :w00t:

Yeah I agree those AFR's are pretty good for a SAFC. its hard to get a SAFC to read that straight. If you changed that to lambda it would be much better to look at :blush:

The dyno is not as happy as some people think.. it read 100hp less compared to the auto salon dyno the next day. but every dyno is different.

With regard to gaps, you go for the largest gap you can use without getting misfiring. Stock gap is 1.1mm but generally when you start upping the boost you need to drop the gap to about 0.8mm. If you have to go lower than that it's because your coilpacks aren't up to the job but in regards to your car Paul, if it's running fine now, great. Don't change anything. Equally don't be surprised if that misfiring comes back at some stage. It will be the coilpacks if it does.

I don't think the AFR's are too bad considering it's just an SAFC. You'll never get a flat line with that.

The dip in the curve is fairly typical of a stock ecu/fuel computer piggyback.

Guilt-Toy - Not denying that's a good tune but it's a happy dyno too.

Paul: Auto :):O:blush:

Graph looks good AFR wise and power I suppose.

Get new coils now! :) They make heap a difference.. Just ask Ed.. Bastard too my coils :w00t:

I miss my car :(

BTW Can I ask how much was the tune at C&V? How long did they take?

Oh and for dump and cat, just get them ones from Justjap. They work fine :)

Someone explain that graph to me dammit!!

Some tuners prefer to display the km/h on the bottom axis instead of RPM.. It looks like a 4th gear run judging by the speed. Why you would want to know power vs km/h i dont know? I would think power vs rpm would be much more useful. There's probably some reason why they would choose km/h instead of rpm, no idea what that is though? :thumbsup:

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