Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi..

Just registed up.. As i just bought my r33 94 Model skyline off my uncle..

I was looking into getting some mods for it but nothing to extreme.. as i have to drive it most days and im only a 3rd year apprentise..

Its has a hks Mushroom filter, Exaust System, And a Dual stage boost switch.. running like 7low 8 high.. its fairly stock.

Was thinking along the lines of maybe a front mount and a new computer.. but nothing to pricey Any Suggestions??

post-39213-1180940334_thumb.jpg

post-39213-1180940385_thumb.jpg

post-39213-1180940426_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171347-moding-my-r33/
Share on other sites

Im sure some of the site sponsers could help you out on a good price for a fmic kit.. Or you could go the cheap way n check ebay for a chinese copy lol.

FMIC kits can start anywhere from 300 dollars all the way up to about 2,000 Depending on brand n style.

With your 2stage boost controller.. id probably bump the "high" up to about 10psi. Has the car got a boost gauge? I wouldve thought that having the aftermarket exhaust (is it 3"?) wouldve bumped the boost up by itself anyways.

How much money did u want 2 spend? U could grab a piggy back computer for cheap.. or look at going a complete aftermarket computer. But for the mods u said u were having or going 2 do, i hardly see it worthwhile. Maybe stick with a SAFC2 as toffy said.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171347-moding-my-r33/#findComment-3161169
Share on other sites

Im sure some of the site sponsers could help you out on a good price for a fmic kit.. Or you could go the cheap way n check ebay for a chinese copy lol.

FMIC kits can start anywhere from 300 dollars all the way up to about 2,000 Depending on brand n style.

With your 2stage boost controller.. id probably bump the "high" up to about 10psi. Has the car got a boost gauge? I wouldve thought that having the aftermarket exhaust (is it 3"?) wouldve bumped the boost up by itself anyways.

How much money did u want 2 spend? U could grab a piggy back computer for cheap.. or look at going a complete aftermarket computer. But for the mods u said u were having or going 2 do, i hardly see it worthwhile. Maybe stick with a SAFC2 as toffy said.

Sorry is the SAFC2 a whole new comp or a piggy back type or...?(Sorry New To This)

I want a good fmic not to expensive.. Im sure its a right through exaust if its 2.5 or 3 not to sure..

Would u suggest these mods or somthing else..

I had it dynoed and it only has a poor 148kw atw.. Would these types of mods add another 50kw if not how much.. (roughly)

Im looking at spending 2-3k are these mods installed possible with this price tag?

Thanks for all your help.!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171347-moding-my-r33/#findComment-3162305
Share on other sites

with 2-3K to spend i would go a Greddy/Trust front mount intercooler....they go for around the $800-1K mark.....then prob a Greddy Emanage Piggy back ECU.....and run at about 10 psi this should see you push past the 200rwkw mark....

My mate has a series 2 R33 and all he has is a Hybrid fmic and running at about 9psi with a well tuned factory ECU....and he is at the 198 rwkw mark...he did have it dynoed on 12 psi and was making around 220 mark.....so its not hard to get some decent power out of these motors for cheap....

if i were you i would also look at getting a Z32 air flow meter...they go for around $400-500 mark and they are a whole lot better/easy to tune......and does give you some power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171347-moding-my-r33/#findComment-3162774
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲
    • Gday mate, Personally in my car i run 450kw in an s2 rb25 so also hydraulic lifters and have always run it to 7500 RPM and using some baby 256 poncams with new but stock springs and retainers. While i cant speak on any experience with solid lifters i personally have had no issues with my hydraulic lifters which were just cleaned and set in an oil bath before assembly over 7 years ago. Over 8k RPM is cool IMO and if you are using the stock gearbox or just a box with longer ratios the higher rpm certainly could aid to maintain boost into the next gear as that was always something i struggled with as i have a 3582r also but a hypergear equivalent could aid that issue. In summary i would make a choice on the cam you want to use first then decide which springs and retainers work best with it and then you can toss up if you really need the solid lifters, if the car is mainly street i would learn towards keeping the hydraulic lifters as when installed properly and nothing too hektik going on around them they do the trick.  
    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
×
×
  • Create New...