Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why is the brake peddle so big.............

Why did the chicken cross the road........................its all part of being able to understand women, and don't you believe them, size DOES matter.

Actually I reckon they made it that big so that people like me - who always drive manuals - so that when I do get into an auto the first intersection I come to I go to change gears and put my passenger thru the windscreen, but I'm OK I have an airbag. Then I get rear ended by the car behind me...........and they wonder why I hate slush boxes????

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the first time i drove an auto i had had my licence for about 2 years. i didn't hit the brakes with my left foot. you are just unco. i moved my foot out of habit to where the clutch pedal would be, but didn't touch the brake.

my ol torry used to have the "hand" brake left side next to the main brake with a switch left of the console you had to "twist and pull"

of coarse the car started as a column shift auto, became a t-bar auto then a 4 sp manual. ahhhh the ol steel thing was great... doors 4" thick.. choice wood grain coloir plastics with the lino covered foam infils.. pure class

did burnouts well though with its leaf springs. major braking upgrade went from rear drums to 4 wheel disks .. awsome.

that thing chewed more blocks then any other car I've ever owned to this day.. it was the variable capacity car.. it had as much capacity as I could afford at the next time I blew something...

lol torries never had leaf springs all coil rears ive raced dozens of them over the yrs lc right thru slr 5000 never seen a leaf spring on any of them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...