Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tried this same post of Performace forums without much (thanks VRFOUR for the only worthwhile response)

G-Day all,

I'm a big fan of most Skyline's but I'm reasonably new to all this. I'm in the market for a new car, however I'm not a complete rev head who just wants something to go down the 1/4 mile in 10 secs. I want a very comfortable, quick, reliable and great looking car. So far I'm very keen on an R33 GTS-T Series II, which, from my research are available from about $23000 to $30000 depending on condition and mods.

Can anyone help me out with traps or things to look out for when buying one of these? I've got a couple to look at over the next few weeks and would like to be pre-armed with as much knowledge as possible.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

Crazy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Crazy

I want a very comfortable, quick, reliable and great looking car. So far I'm very keen on an R33 GTS-T Series II,

any skyline would fit that description.

if i were you i'd stay away from the sII as they are more expensive than the series I albeit they are newer.

if you want reliable buy something else ie. not a skyline

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-32628
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ONARUN

if you want reliable buy something else ie. not a skyline

WTF?

Skylines have to be one of the most reliable cars on our roads today. Not to mention comfy, quick, and good looking!

If I were you Crazy, I'd go the Series 2, Much nicer inside, Dual Airbags, Updated headlights, which in my opinion look fantastic, and really make the car look alot newer than the series1. and a few other things. As for the turbos being a little different, that doesnt apply to you because youre not looking to modify it by the sounds of things.

For a nice clean spec2 you can expect to pay anything in that price range you said, they are more expensive than a spec1, but a lot nicer, and have a 'newer' feel to them. Plus, if you want something thats reliable, you would want something a little newer anyhow.

Things to look out for.

- K's wound Back

- Accident Damage

- Complied?

- Warranty (If you get from a daler make sure they provide you with a warranty)

- Hard Life (Make sure its been well maintained)

- Turbo

Its just like buying any car mate, get it fully inspected and checked out by a mechanic that you trust, then get it done again by someone else. If your happy with it, buy it! You wont regret it.

Also.. make sure you can afford to insure it :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-32649
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ONARUN

if you want reliable buy something else ie. not a skyline

Yeh id say the only solution is SUPRA TT :lol:

Look for hairline fractures in the discs and as ex-static said accident damage and stuff.

Get a vehicle inspection and it will find most problems barr the internal things that look fine till they go POP.

Its a bit risky importing i reckon seeeing as you dont ge to drive or see the car b4hand and there are some dodgy dealers but u do get a warranty which is good . Abuse the hell out of it for 3000ks and if it pop it get replaced (always good to have piece of mind)

Look around for a good dealer and see what he has to offer and then make ure decision.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-32691
Share on other sites

A Supra,,,,get real,,,thats a Toyota,,,YUK,,,over weight,under powered,1st loosers car,,,,,Mate buy a S2 GTS-T,,,,very spunky car,,,especially in White. Check all Imports for rust,,,,,rear wheel arches,,,boot area and back of the front guards. If the car was used on a country type area in nippon land,,,they use salt on the roads....have a real good look underneath. Mines almost stock,,,just a cat back and wheels,,,,I'm more than happy. Not to many of the modded ones get away from me on a run,because they can't use or don't know how to use there extra horsepower.

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-32865
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ONARUN

if you want reliable buy something else ie. not a skyline

George are u serious??

Crazy, i have done over 30,000kms in my car and have never had anything go wrong...the car now has 120,000kms on the clock.

I'm the same as you, I want performance, but I'm not after a car that runs fastest on the quarter mile.

so basically, yep, what ex-static said :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-32880
Share on other sites

Originally posted by vjsam

you're gonna have to spend heaps to make a gts r33 run 10's. even gtr's have trouble doing that. if you want a 10 sec car buy a holden vl 3lt turbo and mod that. you can buy a 9 sec vl for about 15K.

vjsam,,,,You got it a bit wrong buddy,,,he's not after a 10 second car,,,he's after a comfortable,quick car,,,good looking car,,,,a VL is non of them,,,,oh okay Quick....but good looking,,,,,NOT. The only good thing about a VL is its drive train,,,every thing else is crappy.

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-33010
Share on other sites

Your posts were very helpful, I have 2-3 R33's to look at, some series II's and some not.

How can I be sure that's it's fully complianced? I assume there will be a badge on it somewhere from the company that complianced it.....do I then check with the company or do I "trust" that they've done it properly?

Also, if anyone could tell me the exact differences between Series I and II, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time!

Crazy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-33300
Share on other sites

Your posts were very helpful, I have 2-3 R33's to look at, some series II's and some not.

How can I be sure that's it's fully complianced? I assume there will be a badge on it somewhere from the company that complianced it.....do I then check with the company or do I "trust" that they've done it properly?

Also, if anyone could tell me the exact differences between Series I and II, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time!

Crazy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1714-skyline-help-please/#findComment-33303
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
×
×
  • Create New...