Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone confirm whether or not when you use an electronic boost controller, does that negate the differences between using rb20 vs say rb25 wastegate actuators.

I remember reading once that the difference in is like 7 to 10psi or so though if you use say an AVCR it nullifies the advantage in sticking with a rb20 actuator.

-Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171441-avcr-and-the-actuator/
Share on other sites

RB25 wastgate act. is 5psi, RB20 is 10psi

Changing to the RB20 means the AVCR doesn't have to work as hard.

That's the theory anyway, don't know if it makes any difference in the real world though.

Just use whatever you have and go for it.

If you wanna change actuators later, it's only a 5-10min job anyway

..so the answer is yes, you should get close to the same results with either

anyone else?

If You only wanna run 12-13psi, go with the 5psi rb25 actuator, to give the AVC-R more control. If You wanna punch more into it, go the 10psi RB20 actuator so that it won't crack the wastegate open until 10 pound. This'll help quicken spool-up, by not bleeding any gas past the wastegate.

The AVC-R will start tweakin the solenoid at 0.3 bar regardless, so I doubt it'd affect how hard it works, only the duty cycle.

In otherwords, he's saying read birnies post :D

at stockish boost levels, I found that changing actuators with an ebc didn't really do much in terms of spool time. What it did do is it made it hard to make it slightly over wath the actuator is rated to e.g. with the r32 actuator (11ish psi), it was harder to run 12 psi than with the rb25 actuator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...