Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Im wokring on a pair of R33 (2WD) front hubs, i want to know how to take the upper shaft out.

Its the shinny shaft with a castle nut on top in this pic:

hubsba9.jpg

From what i can tell it needs to be pushed DOWN, but i think i need to break something off first.

Im not going to re-use this shaft as its for a project car, but i do need the rest of the hub intact.

Also, how do you take the whole hub apart? to inspect the wheel bearings? - and how tight should the hub be? both of mine seem a littly tight.

Thanks for any help.

Edited by Siddy

After ringing nissan:

The shafts are pressed in, not recommened to remove them, if you have a problem with them buy new hubs.

Hubs should not be dismantled, bearings are not replaceable. Hub nut is all pre-loaded to a specific torque. - again if there are any problems with wheel bearings you buy a new complete hub.

Hope that helps the next person.

I can understand about the pivot. It's not something i'd mess with personally.

But, I had nissan source and fit new front wheel bearings for my 32. I think the guy you talked to just put it all in the too hard basket and made up some bullshit. I removed the backing plate and there's a large nut in there. The spindle is actually press fit into the bearing, which is press fit into the hub (or the other way around :)) My new bearing were actually really tight, but loosened up pretty quickly with use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Middle seat good for a slab of beer or Esky for a road trip. 2x kids, means 1x free seat lol.
    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
×
×
  • Create New...