Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clint32,

Shit, I saw your reply and thought doh myself, as I forgot about your runs. I assumed the E/Ts were better than mine due to the very quick top end. Get your launch OK and it'll be a 12s job for sure. Chris32 had trouble getting a good start/rpm balance too.

Thank u Ivan/RPM Performance for a great day.

It was my first time down the 1/4 so it was nice to do it without a big crowd.Part of the reason why i wanted to do this was to backup my dyno results from the dyno day at Tilbrooks and prove that it was no fluke.

My best was 13.44@106.77with2.183 60` and as Freebags said i did do a 106.99mph 13.5.

It was good to catch up with you guys again and when i'm settled into my new house i should be able to get out crusin again.

Freebaggin-I'm not sure how long that gasket is going to last being that you are missing 2 studs.You may have to order that T88 earlier than you thought so they can fit and fix all at once to cut cost.

Grepin-I`m still baffled by your low mph.I spose just let WW2 begin and kick F/B`s ass then.

Matt

Yep, it was a top day, big thanks to RPM

I had a few good runs, but I really struggled to get it off the line. My best run of the day was 14.03 @ 104.9mph with a 2.5 sec 60ft

Don't reckon the hard track style suspension and cheap Falken's helped much, maybe next time I will get some decent rubber and try and knock 1/2 a second of my 60ft times.

At least after 8 runs nothing broke

Chris

Thank u Ivan/RPM Performance. Specially borrow me the tyre pressure gauge :rolleyes:

never been to drag race b4, i was VERY excited. have 2 15sec pass with 32 psi tyre ,then i borrow ivan's gauge and release the tyre pressure to 22psi and done a 14.5.

being the slowest skyline (tubro) of the day,14.5@100.99 with a 2.299 60'.With same mod of other member(exhaust, intercooler, boost controler) I found that even i have a OKAY lanuch, my car start get slow down at 2 or 3 gear, (seems the boost pressure can't keep at what i set) i try to adjust from 12psi to 13.5psi and guess what, i did worse time in 13.5 psi - 14.8@99.xx

i have order a e-manage from japan this morning after doing some disappoint time. With better tyre, hopefully i can break into 13.5 at the next meeting.

after 9 runs, my heavy duty clutch is not heavy duty anymore :)

Originally posted by hippy

agree with u skyppy .. i saw alot of ur runs tin .. u also got not so good launches .. that greddy emanage would cost something like 1k?? spend it on ur suspension .. lighten flywheel ... tyres ... its all power and torque ... not that i know anything about drag racing .. :rolleyes:

i already got tein HR suspension on my car

i was quite interest at lighten flywheel, but someone told me they will affect the drive quality. Actually anyone who have it, can u told me what is good or bad after having it? but anyway, it won't be purchase until i blow my clutch

tyre was a definate, they are quite worn, i am still waiting my aftermarket rim arrive from oversea, so tyre will be purchase when the rims land.

from the MPH i run, even i got better tyre, i might be just able to break into 13sec, as my aim is low 13 or even high 12, i need more power(more boost). When i get the e-manage, i can have more power and even running higher boost, i can buy them for around $700, and i already have a e-01 to match, rather than a pfc for doulbe the price, it seems not a bad idea...

Lightened flywheel's only really improve your acceleration from lower in the rev range. When at the drags you are always operating at the top end of the rev's i.e 5500-7000rpm so apparently the lightened flywheel is not benificial.

I have a chrome molly lightened flywheel and noticed at the lights it was easier to take off, gears rev match heaps quicker. For the street lightened flywheels are quite good. No loss of drivability or fuel consumption.

the best things to improve the time instead of spending more on the car, is improving my launching skills and shifting skill.

i think i shift alright... :D

Maybe a bit of weight deduction on my car, but more important, is LOSTING weight myself!! :D

i was 75kg when i come to Aus. 3 years ago, and i am near 100kg now, if i can lost some weight to i used to(75kg), the car is 25kg lighter,plus take the audio (2xkg) and spare tyre (10kg?)out, definatelly can be 1/2 sec faster!!!;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...