Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clint32,

Shit, I saw your reply and thought doh myself, as I forgot about your runs. I assumed the E/Ts were better than mine due to the very quick top end. Get your launch OK and it'll be a 12s job for sure. Chris32 had trouble getting a good start/rpm balance too.

Thank u Ivan/RPM Performance for a great day.

It was my first time down the 1/4 so it was nice to do it without a big crowd.Part of the reason why i wanted to do this was to backup my dyno results from the dyno day at Tilbrooks and prove that it was no fluke.

My best was 13.44@106.77with2.183 60` and as Freebags said i did do a 106.99mph 13.5.

It was good to catch up with you guys again and when i'm settled into my new house i should be able to get out crusin again.

Freebaggin-I'm not sure how long that gasket is going to last being that you are missing 2 studs.You may have to order that T88 earlier than you thought so they can fit and fix all at once to cut cost.

Grepin-I`m still baffled by your low mph.I spose just let WW2 begin and kick F/B`s ass then.

Matt

Yep, it was a top day, big thanks to RPM

I had a few good runs, but I really struggled to get it off the line. My best run of the day was 14.03 @ 104.9mph with a 2.5 sec 60ft

Don't reckon the hard track style suspension and cheap Falken's helped much, maybe next time I will get some decent rubber and try and knock 1/2 a second of my 60ft times.

At least after 8 runs nothing broke

Chris

Thank u Ivan/RPM Performance. Specially borrow me the tyre pressure gauge :rolleyes:

never been to drag race b4, i was VERY excited. have 2 15sec pass with 32 psi tyre ,then i borrow ivan's gauge and release the tyre pressure to 22psi and done a 14.5.

being the slowest skyline (tubro) of the day,14.5@100.99 with a 2.299 60'.With same mod of other member(exhaust, intercooler, boost controler) I found that even i have a OKAY lanuch, my car start get slow down at 2 or 3 gear, (seems the boost pressure can't keep at what i set) i try to adjust from 12psi to 13.5psi and guess what, i did worse time in 13.5 psi - 14.8@99.xx

i have order a e-manage from japan this morning after doing some disappoint time. With better tyre, hopefully i can break into 13.5 at the next meeting.

after 9 runs, my heavy duty clutch is not heavy duty anymore :)

Originally posted by hippy

agree with u skyppy .. i saw alot of ur runs tin .. u also got not so good launches .. that greddy emanage would cost something like 1k?? spend it on ur suspension .. lighten flywheel ... tyres ... its all power and torque ... not that i know anything about drag racing .. :rolleyes:

i already got tein HR suspension on my car

i was quite interest at lighten flywheel, but someone told me they will affect the drive quality. Actually anyone who have it, can u told me what is good or bad after having it? but anyway, it won't be purchase until i blow my clutch

tyre was a definate, they are quite worn, i am still waiting my aftermarket rim arrive from oversea, so tyre will be purchase when the rims land.

from the MPH i run, even i got better tyre, i might be just able to break into 13sec, as my aim is low 13 or even high 12, i need more power(more boost). When i get the e-manage, i can have more power and even running higher boost, i can buy them for around $700, and i already have a e-01 to match, rather than a pfc for doulbe the price, it seems not a bad idea...

Lightened flywheel's only really improve your acceleration from lower in the rev range. When at the drags you are always operating at the top end of the rev's i.e 5500-7000rpm so apparently the lightened flywheel is not benificial.

I have a chrome molly lightened flywheel and noticed at the lights it was easier to take off, gears rev match heaps quicker. For the street lightened flywheels are quite good. No loss of drivability or fuel consumption.

the best things to improve the time instead of spending more on the car, is improving my launching skills and shifting skill.

i think i shift alright... :D

Maybe a bit of weight deduction on my car, but more important, is LOSTING weight myself!! :D

i was 75kg when i come to Aus. 3 years ago, and i am near 100kg now, if i can lost some weight to i used to(75kg), the car is 25kg lighter,plus take the audio (2xkg) and spare tyre (10kg?)out, definatelly can be 1/2 sec faster!!!;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wish I had this advice when I did my pump. It went in and out 3 or 4 times, and on the last time it snapped.
    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
×
×
  • Create New...