Jump to content
SAU Community

Track Day, Symonds Plains...


Recommended Posts

Guest RB MaNiAc

im tassie mod for AE86DC & part of my job is to organise track days/cruise's so here it is, you guys are more than welcome to come along if u want.

Track Day

When: Saturday 7th of July

Meeting place: Southern Guys: Granton Car Park(next to brighton memorial hall) @ 8:30am...Northern Guys: meet us at Symonds Plains @ 10:30am

Time: 10:30am

Route and Destination: midlands highway, Symonds Plains...

Cost: $99.00

Rules: NO Burnouts, NO Drifting, No Donuts. u get the picture, GRIP ONLY bitches & ur normal saftey gear such as a helmet

it will be up to you to organise ur own food "n" sh*t

cheers

Andrew :P

Edited by RB MaNiAc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171557-track-day-symonds-plains/
Share on other sites

any of you guys considering gong to this??

cheers

Andrew :P

If car is running by then maybe, although it does clash with the Red Nose day Cruise!!!

Oh and the fact that there will be a SAU track day soon ;)

am I missing something, going to what? :mellow:

He means the Yota track day Dom :mellow:

Who are Yota? Is it at the Domain? :P

Yoto, car club maybe ??????????

Its at Symonds

Track Day

When: Saturday 30th of June[/b]

Meeting place: Southern Guys: Granton Car Park(next to brighton memorial hall) @ 8:30am...Northern Guys: meet us at Symonds Plains @ 10:30am[/size]

Edited by woolls
  • 3 weeks later...
so is this trackday still going ahead on the 7th july, what time? how much?

yeh this is still going ahead, meeting at symonds plains at 10:30am...details on this are provided in the 1st post...$55 if you are a member of a cams affiliated car club, if ur not the cost is $99.

yeh this is still going ahead, meeting at symonds plains at 10:30am...details on this are provided in the 1st post...$55 if you are a member of a cams affiliated car club, if ur not the cost is $99.

It is only $55.00 if you are a member of a Motorsports Tasmania affiliated car club. I'm not sure who they all are, I know the LCCT are. NWCC are not, there's a couple down south that are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...