Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, cutting the wire is the best option as your warning light still comes on when your power steering fluid is low. Just unplug the computer and then with the car on, go through all the wires connecting them with another piece of wire and see which one turns the light on. Then cut that wire, plug it all back in and drive :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171599-hiacs-light/#findComment-3163326
Share on other sites

is it that hard to manually look at the power steering level? You have to check the coolent and oil manually.

It's not hard, but I'd say cutting one wire is easier than taking the dash out, and yes, I've done both. It's not really a necessity, it's just nice to have it there in case something goes wrong, you can notice it earlier I guess.

As for cutting the wrong wire, I wouldn't stress too much, just check them all by connecting them seperately until you find the one that lights up the dash light. Then cut that wire, and plug the plugs back in. Pretty simple, it took me 5mins to find the wire to cut on my R32. If they're like R32 at all, it'll be the green with white trace line wire on the smaller of the two plugs. Dont just cut that wire without checking though, chances are, R32 is different to R33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171599-hiacs-light/#findComment-3163927
Share on other sites

So when the fluid in your p/s resevoir gets low the HICAS light doesn't come on? I thought it would be similar to how the handbrake light comes on when your brake fluid is low...

It is for R32s anyway, could be different for R33s. Seems odd that they would change it though?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171599-hiacs-light/#findComment-3166869
Share on other sites

Salad, being electronic driven in the 33's, there is no Power steer fluid going to the rear, thus no link between hicas and power steer fluid levels.

So has anyone identified which wire it is for the R33's? I pulled the fuse on hicas to make sure it won't operate (until I can get a lock bar) and the light is giving me the shits!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171599-hiacs-light/#findComment-3167101
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...