Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have had this car for 8 months now, however have to sell due to P-plate restrictions. Since owning it i haven't had any problems whatsoever, this is a very regretful sale!

Year: 1997 (last of the 33's)

Mileage: 128,xxx km

rego: May 2008 (almost a full 12 months!)

Transmission: Manual

Colour: White

Price: $16,990ono

Mods:

3" turbo back exhaust with cannon (nice and quiet when cruising, but has an awesome roar under full throttle)

Apexi pod filter (produces nice induction sound)

HKS boost gauge

Front mount intercooler

Oil catch can

Power FC (tuned by racingline performance and now discontinued)

Bleed valve (holds boost well - no sign of boost-spike)

Standard bov

Excedy heavy duty clutch

Alarm system with pager, shock sensors, remote start and built in turbo timer

JVC mp3 head unit with pop down face and wiring for a sub and amp in place

Momo steering wheel

Original series 2 Skyline floormats

Nismo key

Original M type mody kit

Nismo front lip

I have looked after this car very well, it is washed at least once a week and serviced with new oil and oil filter every 4000-5000km. I also flushed and replaced the coilant around 10,000km ago. After searching for an R33 myself last year I know how hard it is to find a clean one, this is one of the cleanest around! The body is in immaculate condition with the only damage being a few small stone chips in the front bumper and the interior is very clean.

Extras that will be included:

Silencer for exhaust

Blitz turbo timer

Spare dump pipe

Extra non-cannon muffler

Original ECU

Not really interested in swaps as I already have a new car, but feel free to offer anyway

Contact information:

Phone Josh on: 0407343845

located in S.E. Melb

*Selling with standard rims*

Pictures:

post-32498-1181104725_thumb.jpg

post-32498-1181104792_thumb.jpg

post-32498-1181291168_thumb.jpg

post-32498-1181291196_thumb.jpg

post-32498-1181291265_thumb.jpg

post-32498-1181291293_thumb.jpg

Edited by Josh_TypeX
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171653-1997-r33-gtst-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...