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This issue exists even when the engine temp sensors are good.

The ignition switch sounds interesting.... Mine recently has started to take a little while to kick over when warm. Cold it fires straight up ever since I dropped the pfc on to it and tweaked old start etc.

Cubes your issue is a bit different cos you getting it when engine is warm.

I was referring to.......

*edit* we also found that the ignition switch was worn - if it takes a while to crank over too, check the voltage on it. I originally thought my issue was fuel on cold start (aftermarket ecu) ended up being 2 problems - ignition switch dropping current resulting in excessive cranking before firing and then the AAC being dodgy and not opening all the way for cold start and causing the stalling issue after a second or two.

which 'may' be the cause of my problem. Just thinking out aloud. :thumbsup:

----

The cold start you are experiencing..... pfc + a little tweaking fixed it for me. :thumbsup:

Before that I put up with the shitty cold start for many years.

I've owned mine close to 6years now.

how much roughly for a new sensor?

depends on who you talk to. i rang All Jap wreakers and one guy said $75 after i had to explain what it was. i would recomend just asking if they have any RB20's in the yard and buying the sensor with something else that you can agree is cheap.

change/check your fuel pressure regulators. I have the same problem. It only comes when I fit my aftermarket FPR. When I use my stocker, it starts up so quickly, without any throttle blipping. Without, yeh, the car wants to die without a blip. If you don't have an aftermarket FPR fitted, try finding someone else's. Keep a small o-ring handy and make sure your in a place where you can drop a bit of fuel.

This may not be your answer, but it certainly is mine.

depends on who you talk to. i rang All Jap wreakers and one guy said $75 after i had to explain what it was. i would recomend just asking if they have any RB20's in the yard and buying the sensor with something else that you can agree is cheap.

same way you test to see if yours is broke. i used my old mans work meter to check the resistance of the sensor. should see 3V at 20 degrees and 1V at 80.

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