Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh sounds like the belts, i have the same problem on my 32 when i start it....may just have to get them tightened or may have to replace.

When u have used the car for a while and the engine is all hot, then shut it off, then start it back up again, does it still make the screeching sound? because i have been told it's the belts by the mechanic and mine only screeches when cold, once the engine is hot the screeching stops.

yeh sounds like the belts, i have the same problem on my 32 when i start it....may just have to get them tightened or may have to replace.

When u have used the car for a while and the engine is all hot, then shut it off, then start it back up again, does it still make the screeching sound? because i have been told it's the belts by the mechanic and mine only screeches when cold, once the engine is hot the screeching stops.

yeap thats the belt!

mine does the same thing, like u said only when its cold, cbf fixing it just do it later lol :rofl:

My R32 is in need of the 100K service but after doing a little research and obtaining some quotes (anywhere from $800 - $1000) i have decided to hold off on it.

The car is now currently at 113K's :laugh:

donations any1? :rofl:

Edited by LoNg_ShaNks

i have the same problem in my r33. but when i start it up, u can vaguely hear the screeching sound. rev it up in neutral, and the screeching noise get worse. i drive down the road for a while in gear and noise continues, but, when i chuck it in neutral the noise goes away. then once i put it in gear again the noise returns.

and sometimes, the noise will be there, the same sh#t as above will happen, then it will go away for a couple of minutes, then come back again.

i took it to my mechanic and asked him to check the belts, which he did, and he said the problem was fixed. but the noise is still there, and happening for longer, only on cold starts though

hmmm yeah only happens when the engines cold, and also one more question atm my engine the dip stick thing and the dip stick tube is missing but something is jammed into it i was wonderin ghow to get that thign out? or is there anotehr alternative way in checking oil levels thanks?...i just noticed as i bought the engine and got it put it....mitchy didn't know this as well so im assuming its the previous previous owner of the engine

Cheers

Chi

anyone know what i can do about my dip stick problem? ill get pics of it tonight i think its peice of metal with a 6mm diameter put inot the dip stick hole.... but i danno hwo to get it out :O hmmm so any ideas of how to get it out guys ? ill take osme pics tonight mmm well i went to top racing adn a few mechancis...they say they need to either use a tool to pull it out but need to drill in it or eitehr take sump off and bash the piece out....but taking the sump off is like quiet expensive :? sooo ne idea guys !!!? i can't check my oil levels ! :P

Cheers

Chi

nah seriously guys got ne ideas of how i can get this cylinder thingo out of the dip stick place? i know its not mitchy's fault but all iw ant is just how to take it out !! lol apparently peeps who block that hole use it for race...so hahah yeah and runa dry sump

Cheers

Chi

yeh sounds like the belts, i have the same problem on my 32 when i start it....may just have to get them tightened or may have to replace.

When u have used the car for a while and the engine is all hot, then shut it off, then start it back up again, does it still make the screeching sound? because i have been told it's the belts by the mechanic and mine only screeches when cold, once the engine is hot the screeching stops.

i have exactly the same problem, but only last for 2 seconds even on a very very cold morning

lol this may sound noob, but which belts? timing belt?

find someone with a mig welder, seal whatever it is with the thickest grease you can find (I recommend high temp wheel bearing grease) to seal the dipstick tube and stop crap falling in to the sump, and then get your mate with the welder to tack a piece of rod to the obstruction. You could even ask him to weld a basic tee handle on top and then start yanking and pulling.

Or, you could try and source a new dipstick and tube from a wrecker and get someone to use a oxy torch to veeeeery gently de-braize the dipstick tube from the sump (or block, cant remember which one it goes in to) and just replace it with a new one?

It goes without saying that this would a lot easier acheived whith the engine out of the car, but doable if its already in.

hope this helps :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.
    • Set of knee pads for a R34. Will fit every model I think. Comes with everything except the rubber covers for the bolt holes. Still in great condition. You will need to drill holes to mount these or use double sided tape. I can do free shipping and will be shipping from the Netherlands with tracking.
    • Nistune needs something like an entire excel spreadsheet in which you build an abstraction layer that converts everything from real units you can actually measure into all of the various tables. The number of unexpected dependencies hiding in how the Nissan ECUs do math is a pretty impressive optimization trick for 8-bit MCUs but good god is it awful to actually work with in practice. 
×
×
  • Create New...