Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all i though i should post up some info on my skyline as i have looked over every one elces. and this is the 4 door section so i will feal right at home.

Storie goes:

well i brought my stock auto 89 moddel 32 for a fairly good price localy about 9 months ago. i had looked around for quite a while but i didnt realy have enough cash being an apprentice to get anything real flash. i realy wanted a foor door and i sat on this one for a few months before having a look at it. it had a genuine 80odd thousand and was macco on the interior and engine but had a farly rough body (still does) when i got it it had a gab front strut brace and pod with r33 wheels. i didnt have lots to spend on it and a manual was on the cards but i never got to it. there was a 32 wrecking at a local yard so i pinched the stocko wheels and a nice nismo260 dash out of it. 9 months in and i have recently blown the auto gbox and lost my licence so i have decided to go for a rb25 conversion. as done by many.

Achivements:

i have run this car at a few club motorkhanas and one drift day to count with the auto box. there was plans to enter in a three day tarmac rally here in tas but as i have no licence i can not enter.

Goal:

the goal sofar is to compete in the full tassy drift series next year including as many prac days as possible while also getting the car to as manny other motor sport events like drag and track days. so the car will be biult with reliability as a number 1 as i dont want to be fixing it every other weekend. as for the body thoe i think it may have to wait or see a back yard job to make it look a bit better.

Mods:

-engine. RB20det is out and Rb25 is going in. drift pod, cai, HKS EBC @12psi for the time being and also rb20 actuator on the stock 25 turbo, twin 2.5" exhaust, GTR front mount with aluminium piping, B&M oil cooler with remote filter.

-suspension. i have put a fai bit of thought into this as i wanted adjustability mainly. custom made adj castor rods. nismo chunky front strut brace with custom brake cylender stopper. JJR rear strut brace. adj rear camber arms. adj traction rods. drift pineapples. hicas lock bar icluding all lines removed. as for springs and shock i am currently running pedders lowered springs on stock struts but i will be looking at changeing these to bilstines asap. front camber arms and castor bracket gusseting will be the next few mods.

-brakes. RDA slotted rotors on the front with bendix ultimate pads (EBC greens next time) PBR 600 race fluid.

-body work. sh*t house. i am currently modifying a set of standard r23 2 door skirts to suit. east bear tail light covers

-interior. i currently have a HKS turbo timer. greddy 80mm boost gauge and omori exhaust temp gauge. i also have aluminimum side mount rails attached to a sparco fixed back seat which can be swapped with standard seat for dayly driving. i was thinking about getting a full set of VDO gauges (as i can get them cheap) but now i am thinking of getting some jaycar digital temp displays to make it a bit more flashy.

-rolling stock. i currently have a set of r33 wheels which are my dayly driving wheels. a set of r32 wheels which carry race tyres and a set of amg style wheels for the back when drifting. i would love a set of nice wheels but i cant justify thousands for looks just yet.

Vid:

Pics:

post-28089-1181216755_thumb.jpg

post-28089-1181217270_thumb.jpg

post-28089-1181217359_thumb.jpg

Edited by DJRIFT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171877-my-r32-work-in-progress/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well stage one of my conversion has started. i have a buyer for my old 20 motor and i recived a rb25 long motor in pices including GTR rods and pistons. it should make for a good motor when complete.

on a down side its going to be 3 weeks before i get my halfcut.

Mine used to look like that once! Now it's full of dents and mismatched panels... :)

Everyone's going 25 damn it! I'm gonna be the only guy left with an R32 with a crappy RB20!

Get some good shocks and some nice big thick adjustable swaybars and she'll be sweet :(

Edited by salad
Mine used to look like that once! Now it's full of dents and mismatched panels... :thumbsup:

Everyone's going 25 damn it! I'm gonna be the only guy left with an R32 with a crappy RB20!

Get some good shocks and some nice big thick adjustable swaybars and she'll be sweet :)

thanks mate ive looked at yours as somthing to aspire to. i to was after the standard type m foor door skirts but i ended up just modding a set of 2 door ones. ive also watch you go through heaps of coil overs so you have saved me the efort of doing that two. i thought you had a 25 in it. must have miss read somewhere. anyway keep up the good work

thanks mate ive looked at yours as somthing to aspire to. i to was after the standard type m foor door skirts but i ended up just modding a set of 2 door ones. ive also watch you go through heaps of coil overs so you have saved me the efort of doing that two. i thought you had a 25 in it. must have miss read somewhere. anyway keep up the good work

Few more crashes and it'll be like mine :(

Might be a 25 in there one day, but not looking too likely at the moment, no money... :P

Will just keep revving the crap out of the RB20 till it shits it ;)

well tonight was the first night of my biuld project. ive put my car into my uncles shed for the next 4 weeks, or thats as long as he will let me keep it there as he thought i said 2 weeks on the phone. also i hope to debue the new setup at the next local drift day which is on the 21st of july.

tonight i managed to get front bar bonnet and LHF guard off and out of the way. (the LHF needs some pannel beating) removed all of the intercooler pipeing and side mount. and got the new peddal box in. Wow its cool having a car with a clutch peddal in it finaly.

the motor just needs to be unbolted and have all the fluids dropped then it can come out hopeful alowing me to do some fiddly jobs in the engine bay.

i have sold the motor and possibly the computer to a friend and hopefully ican pick up the new motor next week some time.

ill get some pics on it all next time i am up there.

damo

  • 2 weeks later...

i picked up my engine today and am yet to do much but look at it. im off to work now so i dont get to do anything to it till tomorrow.

one thing i do need thoe is a yoke to suit the gearbox? any ideas.

ive since been up to the shed and had a bit of a squiz at the engine. it had a timing belt sticker on it which said 95000 and i was told it had less than 100,000 on the clock so the timing belt shouldnt be to old. i pulled the cover off tonight and sure enough it had a newish looking pitworks belt on it and the water pump looks pretty clean behind the cover. i am still in two minds as to if i should still chuck a new timing kit int it or not. i have one sitting waiting to go but i could probably use the money elce where.

i pulled the gearbox off and found a worn out standard clutch. i was hoping for an os geken tripple plate, haha.

the turbo has no shaft play either front to back or side to side but it seems odd as two of the nuts that hold the turbo on are loose. loke one had nearly worked its way right off the stud. strange???

and finaly i pulled one of the coil packs out to expose some cheap looking american made spark plugs which look pretty seccond hand. so new cluthc and plugs and a real good clean up and away she will go.

no idea on the condition of the g box as of yet thoe.

Edited by DJRIFT

if you didnt get a yolk then you'll need to track one down, try an SA based impoirter like japanese motorsports.. olny cause i know they have heaps lying around. then you need to get a custom front section made up, aint hard at all and i have the measurements already done if you want them.

dont bother with timing belt and pump, just change the plugs and put some 0.8 gapped coppers in there, check all the coil packs, clean the electrodes and look for cracks on the pack, if they are cracked then silastic them up before putting them back in. trust me take your time here as it will save having to do it all again when the car doesnt run propperly (like mine didnt lol)

as for nuts falling off the turbo. its quite common as those nuts are exposed to some serious heat cycling, your best bet is to make sure the little metal tabs are still on there and grab some locktite anti seise, put that on the thread and do them up tight.

box should be in good nick if it had a stock clutch! i know mine was so i was pretty happy about that (i too was hoping for a OS clutch hahaha)

ive spent most night this week on my car and some of today but working 2 jobs is making it hard to juggle car time and sleep.

the biggest hurdle at the moment is getting the wiring sorted as i am having trouble finding wiring diagrams.

the 25 swap probably isnt such a big deal but its all the other jobs im trying to do as well. because my car had nearly no mods it ment that i now need to do heaps to get it all in and running smoothly.

to start with it was an auto so ive done peddal box and all the rest.

i have put a 040 pump in (today) which should keep up to the 25 for a while.

i want to pull the diff out and reshim it. i had a shim in it but it was to tight so i want to get the right size so it actualy works as an lsd and not a weldy.

i had never finished my front mount ie i have a GTR cooler and was going to custom pipe it but never got to it but ive just brought a piping kit so that should have it all sorterd. still needs modding thoe.

i do have an oil cooler but it was put on in a bit of a rush one saturday before a race on sunday so i am redoing it.

so there is lots more to do but ill try and keep you all up to date and i will try and get some pics up as everyone loves pics.

sorry mate i forgot to get back to you with wiring info.

anyway heres what i did... it may or maynot help you.

1) Cut the plug off the rb20 loom where it plugs into the body loom near the pass side strut tower, if you car is factory manual you'll only have one plug if it was auto then you'll have two, the 2nd plug for the auto is not needed, i chopped mine out and discarded it.

2) the plug needs to be soldered into the R33 loom in the same location, theres a similar plug already there but the pin outs are different, theres a white/purple (constant 12V) and a white/black wire (switched ignition 12v) which you'll use to power up various things. Now in the RB25 loom where you've cut off the plug to solder on the rb20 plug, theres a grey wire which is the injector feed, needs to be wired into the white/black.

3) run several wires from the plug down the loom and to the SMJ plug (big white plug) here you need to power up two wires, a constant and a switched igniton scource

soo in summary

R33---------------------------R32

Black/Red---------------->White/Purple

Red------------------------>Black/Red

Black/White-------------->White/Black. (has the grey injector wire also attached to it.)

look at pin outs to find the wires to power up on the ecu, then trace the pin out wire to the SMJ plug, cut from the smj plug and power them up.

then, you need to hook up fuel pump, coolant temp wire, tacho, speedo wire and wipers.

From mem on the R32 loom

On the R32 under dash loom there are two plugs. The colours are similar.. you need to use the ones on the smaller or the two. 14pin. The other has 18.

R33----------------------------R32

Blue/Black ---------------->Blue/Black. Water Temp. ( you also need to use the RB25DET engine sender. (single wire)

Yellow/Blue---------------->Yellow/Red. Tacho

Black/Pink------------------>Black/Pink. Fuel pump.

thanks for that simon.

i managed to get my hands on a few diagrams so it should be good.

i also have the aircon stuff to wire up. i think it needs a few bits and pices to make the climate control work.

i put the motor and gearbox in yesterday and for some reason the standard rb25 gear box cross member bolted right in to all 4 bolt holes. im sure i read some where this wouldnt happen. i am also using the rb20 engine monts off the block. i will be pulling the motor out again tonight to fix some more stuf up and i will be checking then to make sure the box isnt a rb20 box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...