My R32 Work In Progress

[DJRIFT]

hi all i though i should post up some info on my skyline as i have looked over every one elces. and this is the 4 door section so i will feal right at home.

Storie goes:

well i brought my stock auto 89 moddel 32 for a fairly good price localy about 9 months ago. i had looked around for quite a while but i didnt realy have enough cash being an apprentice to get anything real flash. i realy wanted a foor door and i sat on this one for a few months before having a look at it. it had a genuine 80odd thousand and was macco on the interior and engine but had a farly rough body (still does) when i got it it had a gab front strut brace and pod with r33 wheels. i didnt have lots to spend on it and a manual was on the cards but i never got to it. there was a 32 wrecking at a local yard so i pinched the stocko wheels and a nice nismo260 dash out of it. 9 months in and i have recently blown the auto gbox and lost my licence so i have decided to go for a rb25 conversion. as done by many.

Achivements:

i have run this car at a few club motorkhanas and one drift day to count with the auto box. there was plans to enter in a three day tarmac rally here in tas but as i have no licence i can not enter.

Goal:

the goal sofar is to compete in the full tassy drift series next year including as many prac days as possible while also getting the car to as manny other motor sport events like drag and track days. so the car will be biult with reliability as a number 1 as i dont want to be fixing it every other weekend. as for the body thoe i think it may have to wait or see a back yard job to make it look a bit better.

Mods:

-engine. RB20det is out and Rb25 is going in. drift pod, cai, HKS EBC @12psi for the time being and also rb20 actuator on the stock 25 turbo, twin 2.5" exhaust, GTR front mount with aluminium piping, B&M oil cooler with remote filter.

-suspension. i have put a fai bit of thought into this as i wanted adjustability mainly. custom made adj castor rods. nismo chunky front strut brace with custom brake cylender stopper. JJR rear strut brace. adj rear camber arms. adj traction rods. drift pineapples. hicas lock bar icluding all lines removed. as for springs and shock i am currently running pedders lowered springs on stock struts but i will be looking at changeing these to bilstines asap. front camber arms and castor bracket gusseting will be the next few mods.

-brakes. RDA slotted rotors on the front with bendix ultimate pads (EBC greens next time) PBR 600 race fluid.

-body work. sh*t house. i am currently modifying a set of standard r23 2 door skirts to suit. east bear tail light covers

-interior. i currently have a HKS turbo timer. greddy 80mm boost gauge and omori exhaust temp gauge. i also have aluminimum side mount rails attached to a sparco fixed back seat which can be swapped with standard seat for dayly driving. i was thinking about getting a full set of VDO gauges (as i can get them cheap) but now i am thinking of getting some jaycar digital temp displays to make it a bit more flashy.

-rolling stock. i currently have a set of r33 wheels which are my dayly driving wheels. a set of r32 wheels which carry race tyres and a set of amg style wheels for the back when drifting. i would love a set of nice wheels but i cant justify thousands for looks just yet.

Vid:

Pics:

Edited July 7, 2007 by DJRIFT

[toffy]

good to see her coming along damo, cant wait to see her finished :sorcerer:

[DJRIFT]

well stage one of my conversion has started. i have a buyer for my old 20 motor and i recived a rb25 long motor in pices including GTR rods and pistons. it should make for a good motor when complete.

on a down side its going to be 3 weeks before i get my halfcut.

[TazzS13]

RB25 is going to be sick, extra torque will be nice to play around with on the track!! now kit it, slam it and drift it

cant wait to see it going!

[DJRIFT]

yess the extra power will be nice but i cant see the funds stretching for a kit and wheels so it will still look pretty average

[salad]

Mine used to look like that once! Now it's full of dents and mismatched panels...

Everyone's going 25 damn it! I'm gonna be the only guy left with an R32 with a crappy RB20!

Get some good shocks and some nice big thick adjustable swaybars and she'll be sweet

Edited June 13, 2007 by salad

[DJRIFT]

Mine used to look like that once! Now it's full of dents and mismatched panels...

Everyone's going 25 damn it! I'm gonna be the only guy left with an R32 with a crappy RB20!

Get some good shocks and some nice big thick adjustable swaybars and she'll be sweet

thanks mate ive looked at yours as somthing to aspire to. i to was after the standard type m foor door skirts but i ended up just modding a set of 2 door ones. ive also watch you go through heaps of coil overs so you have saved me the efort of doing that two. i thought you had a 25 in it. must have miss read somewhere. anyway keep up the good work

[CeJay]

Should start a rb25 4 door support group I've got one in mine too, but i bought it like that.

[salad]

thanks mate ive looked at yours as somthing to aspire to. i to was after the standard type m foor door skirts but i ended up just modding a set of 2 door ones. ive also watch you go through heaps of coil overs so you have saved me the efort of doing that two. i thought you had a 25 in it. must have miss read somewhere. anyway keep up the good work

Few more crashes and it'll be like mine

Might be a 25 in there one day, but not looking too likely at the moment, no money...

Will just keep revving the crap out of the RB20 till it shits it

[32 4whore]

Im with Showza.

20 till it blows then cry as i will have no car to drive.

Will put a better engine in when i can afford to.

I need some contacts

[DJRIFT]

well tonight was the first night of my biuld project. ive put my car into my uncles shed for the next 4 weeks, or thats as long as he will let me keep it there as he thought i said 2 weeks on the phone. also i hope to debue the new setup at the next local drift day which is on the 21st of july.

tonight i managed to get front bar bonnet and LHF guard off and out of the way. (the LHF needs some pannel beating) removed all of the intercooler pipeing and side mount. and got the new peddal box in. Wow its cool having a car with a clutch peddal in it finaly.

the motor just needs to be unbolted and have all the fluids dropped then it can come out hopeful alowing me to do some fiddly jobs in the engine bay.

i have sold the motor and possibly the computer to a friend and hopefully ican pick up the new motor next week some time.

ill get some pics on it all next time i am up there.

damo

[DJRIFT]

i picked up my engine today and am yet to do much but look at it. im off to work now so i dont get to do anything to it till tomorrow.

one thing i do need thoe is a yoke to suit the gearbox? any ideas.

ive since been up to the shed and had a bit of a squiz at the engine. it had a timing belt sticker on it which said 95000 and i was told it had less than 100,000 on the clock so the timing belt shouldnt be to old. i pulled the cover off tonight and sure enough it had a newish looking pitworks belt on it and the water pump looks pretty clean behind the cover. i am still in two minds as to if i should still chuck a new timing kit int it or not. i have one sitting waiting to go but i could probably use the money elce where.

i pulled the gearbox off and found a worn out standard clutch. i was hoping for an os geken tripple plate, haha.

the turbo has no shaft play either front to back or side to side but it seems odd as two of the nuts that hold the turbo on are loose. loke one had nearly worked its way right off the stud. strange???

and finaly i pulled one of the coil packs out to expose some cheap looking american made spark plugs which look pretty seccond hand. so new cluthc and plugs and a real good clean up and away she will go.

no idea on the condition of the g box as of yet thoe.

Edited June 30, 2007 by DJRIFT

[Simon-S14]

if you didnt get a yolk then you'll need to track one down, try an SA based impoirter like japanese motorsports.. olny cause i know they have heaps lying around. then you need to get a custom front section made up, aint hard at all and i have the measurements already done if you want them.

dont bother with timing belt and pump, just change the plugs and put some 0.8 gapped coppers in there, check all the coil packs, clean the electrodes and look for cracks on the pack, if they are cracked then silastic them up before putting them back in. trust me take your time here as it will save having to do it all again when the car doesnt run propperly (like mine didnt lol)

as for nuts falling off the turbo. its quite common as those nuts are exposed to some serious heat cycling, your best bet is to make sure the little metal tabs are still on there and grab some locktite anti seise, put that on the thread and do them up tight.

box should be in good nick if it had a stock clutch! i know mine was so i was pretty happy about that (i too was hoping for a OS clutch hahaha)

[DJRIFT]

^^^ cool thanks for that. what sort of plugs are you running?

i thought it was probably a good thing to see a worn out clutch.

[Simon-S14]

Copper NGK BCPR6E

[DJRIFT]

ive spent most night this week on my car and some of today but working 2 jobs is making it hard to juggle car time and sleep.

the biggest hurdle at the moment is getting the wiring sorted as i am having trouble finding wiring diagrams.

the 25 swap probably isnt such a big deal but its all the other jobs im trying to do as well. because my car had nearly no mods it ment that i now need to do heaps to get it all in and running smoothly.

to start with it was an auto so ive done peddal box and all the rest.

i have put a 040 pump in (today) which should keep up to the 25 for a while.

i want to pull the diff out and reshim it. i had a shim in it but it was to tight so i want to get the right size so it actualy works as an lsd and not a weldy.

i had never finished my front mount ie i have a GTR cooler and was going to custom pipe it but never got to it but ive just brought a piping kit so that should have it all sorterd. still needs modding thoe.

i do have an oil cooler but it was put on in a bit of a rush one saturday before a race on sunday so i am redoing it.

so there is lots more to do but ill try and keep you all up to date and i will try and get some pics up as everyone loves pics.

[Simon-S14]

sorry mate i forgot to get back to you with wiring info.

anyway heres what i did... it may or maynot help you.

1) Cut the plug off the rb20 loom where it plugs into the body loom near the pass side strut tower, if you car is factory manual you'll only have one plug if it was auto then you'll have two, the 2nd plug for the auto is not needed, i chopped mine out and discarded it.

2) the plug needs to be soldered into the R33 loom in the same location, theres a similar plug already there but the pin outs are different, theres a white/purple (constant 12V) and a white/black wire (switched ignition 12v) which you'll use to power up various things. Now in the RB25 loom where you've cut off the plug to solder on the rb20 plug, theres a grey wire which is the injector feed, needs to be wired into the white/black.

3) run several wires from the plug down the loom and to the SMJ plug (big white plug) here you need to power up two wires, a constant and a switched igniton scource

soo in summary

R33---------------------------R32

Black/Red---------------->White/Purple

Red------------------------>Black/Red

Black/White-------------->White/Black. (has the grey injector wire also attached to it.)

look at pin outs to find the wires to power up on the ecu, then trace the pin out wire to the SMJ plug, cut from the smj plug and power them up.

then, you need to hook up fuel pump, coolant temp wire, tacho, speedo wire and wipers.

From mem on the R32 loom

On the R32 under dash loom there are two plugs. The colours are similar.. you need to use the ones on the smaller or the two. 14pin. The other has 18.

R33----------------------------R32

Blue/Black ---------------->Blue/Black. Water Temp. ( you also need to use the RB25DET engine sender. (single wire)

Yellow/Blue---------------->Yellow/Red. Tacho

Black/Pink------------------>Black/Pink. Fuel pump.

[1400r]

hope my second hand jap 32 runnig wt 25det loom

works so I dont have to go through this junk

then again my car's stuck in QL not starting so I may never have to worry about fitting the 25

anyway

Edited July 8, 2007 by 1400r

[Simon-S14]

haha its really not that hard to wire up... once i had an idea of what i needed to wire up it only took me an hour and a half to do it all, and it ran first go.

[DJRIFT]

thanks for that simon.

i managed to get my hands on a few diagrams so it should be good.

i also have the aircon stuff to wire up. i think it needs a few bits and pices to make the climate control work.

i put the motor and gearbox in yesterday and for some reason the standard rb25 gear box cross member bolted right in to all 4 bolt holes. im sure i read some where this wouldnt happen. i am also using the rb20 engine monts off the block. i will be pulling the motor out again tonight to fix some more stuf up and i will be checking then to make sure the box isnt a rb20 box.