Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

:thumbsup: omfg! so sorry to hear bout this dude

hope the bastard(s) who did this end up gettin their due punishment

jeez gota get me an alarm before suomething like this happens to me

  • 1 month later...

hi all

just thought i would post up a link to my for sale post as i am currently wrecking a 4 door r32 and thought that most of you guys may be after hard to get parts. this isnt my old car but a car i had brought with the intention of fixing.

oh and here is the link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=186107

thanks damo

Edited by DJRIFT
  • 3 months later...

hey all

well its been a while but i thought i might update this spot with my new car. i know its not a 4 door but its what the budget let me get. i was lucky enought to pic up a 92 moddel r32 2 door with an rb25de in it. it is classed as a race only import so i got it exteemly cheap.

i was also able to trace its post japan history (for some reason i love finding it all out) it was imported with a full GTR body kit including bonnet grill ect, on it and then sold on through 2 or 3 people untill it landed with a bloke that had a gtst race car. he stole everything GTR off it but inturn tossed the 4 stud hubs and inadiqate brakes away and put the normal 5 stud and gtst brakes on it. his plan was to use it for hill climbs because of the throttle response over the lag of his race car.

after my car got stolen i had found 2 or 3 possible new ones but after many late nights thinking about it this car was chosen mainly for the rb25de because of the possible engine combos i could do.

so after it arived at my shed myself and my handy offsider (chad) started fitting in all the gear that was salveged from the old car. this was pretty much just suspension bits. it was then decided that my rb25det gearbox would have to go into the new beast with being a drift only car in mind the strong box was the definate choise. while this was going on it was found that the NA diff was definatly a single spinner so the old auto diff was making its way onto the car aswell. this ment that everything from the back of the engine was now swapped right throught to the hubbs.

all this however caused a lot of little problems along the way with burnt bits from the fire and what not. a custom gbox cross member was also made up to fit the new box.

so the car was sitting very low and strong just a few days before an event i had planned on entering. a grass motorkhana just for fun. this was to find all the faults with it before it hit the tarmack. which it found plenty. the pic below is of chad in the car. lets just say he wants a 32 now to. haha.

the car had sat for a few weeks after this while i decided what i would do engine wise. in the end after much debate with friends and workshops i decided that for the time being it would become a simple rb25 de+t using some standard rb25det items to help it along. with future plans of a bigger turbo and head gasket or and rb30 bottom end.

all the stuff is now sitting ready to go on and i have now 6 weeks to get it on and tuned ready for super drift when it comes to tassy on the first weekend in march. 6 week plan gives me a few weeks lead up for practice.

i am not going to list to many of the mods as i dont want this car to be stolen again but one thing done slightly different was the choise of a haltech e11 to handel the engine side of things. this casuing a few dramas because of having to start from scratch with the mapping.

so stay tuned for some more updates as it all goes together.

OH and there is a pic of the unfinished vented bonnet ive always wanted to make.

post-28089-1198972386_thumb.jpg

post-28089-1198972597_thumb.jpg

post-28089-1198972725_thumb.jpg

post-28089-1198972896_thumb.jpg

  • 2 years later...

So some time in late 06 i brought my first import that came a sad demise. then i got a track car that i still have now and have just recently brought my newest addition. a R32 4 door.

DSC03102-1.jpg

its only stock at the moment and the body is about as rough as the old silver one but its factor manual and it a daily driver but ive already spent a few hours fixing bits here and there. a friend of mine is fixing and prepping a new front bar boot lid and a few other parts to help turn this into just a nice streeter for now.

i just read through the old thread and geeez ive learnt a lot since then but my passion to keep tinkering with skylines hassent faded. Between 4 of my good friends we own 9 r32s and a few wrecks and enough surplus parts to keep them running.

There is 2 original parts that live on from my silver 4 door. the diff which is in my drift car and a passenger side mirror that was removed for replacement gannadoors which is now fitted to my new 4 door after having some stuff fall on the it in my shed braking the its mirror.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...