Factory Oil recommendation

[NO_RSPECT]

What is the factory specified oil viscoscity/weight etc for an R33 GTST

I know sr20det i like 10w-30

anyone know about our precious lines?

thanks

RiaZ

[DamoR33]

alot of people use 0W-40

[JimX]

I'm going to try Castrol 5W-30 on my next service. The pistons on a Skyline are smaller than those on the SR20 so in theory any oil that's good enough for them should also be good enough for the Skyline.

It depends on the condition of your engine. If yours is burning any oil then you will need a thicker grade than 30. Mine isn't using a single drop (currently 10W-60) which is why I'm going to try the 5W-30. Whatever you get, make sure it's synthetic.

Do a search on "oil myths" in Google, the first 2 results have some interesting reading.

[walkoau]

i remember reading 7.5w-30 somewhere.

[Guest RedLineGTR]

Originally posted by walkoau

i remember reading 7.5w-30 somewhere.

yep those a factory specs...

[JimX]

I had a look in my owner's book and I can't find the oil grade I'm supposed to be using. Does anyone know if it's actually hidden in there somewhere? (JPNZ one). If not, does anyone have a link for a definitive source on what grade oil it should be using?

In my motorcycle manual, it has varying different grades of oil depending on what temperature the air is in. The 5W-30 oil seemed to only be ok in climates under 30 degrees Celsius.

[WazR32GTSt]

i have to factory owners manual but its in japanese

on page 87 there is a table about oils and from my interpretation the factory one is 7.5 W 30, just as redlineGTR said

[Cubes]

In aussy conditions you can't beat the semi-synthetic Penrite HPR10, Its vis is 10w50.

Running Mobil 1 I found that the RB would tick slightly.

Penzoil would start ticking on idle after 1000-2000kays, I also had this same problem with penzoil in my VS V8 that I used to own.

Castrol never tried it.

Motul semi-synthetic I found wasn't very good (tick on idle) at all however their top of the line gear is.

Try the Penrite HPR10 it is good. A lot of Taxi's run it.

[Guest RedLineGTR]

whatevers in your budget..fullstop you get what you pay for in oils.

[JimX]

I can't understand why so many people are saying semi-synths are the best oils. Fair enough they may be good value, but the fact that they're semi-synth means they are inferior to the full synths. The point of a synthetic oil is it's more tolerant to high temperatures. If you blend this with a mineral oil you lose at least some of this high temperature tolerance.

[Cubes]

Erm.. I wasn't saying it is the best oil... It is what I use as it suits me best.. I don't want to spend 60+ every oil change.

I found Mobil 1 isn't that good and that is basically the cheapest synth oil.

I have had good results with Penrite and they have a good range of weight oils.. hence 10w50 which is perfect for hard driving yet cold morning starts

[JimX]

Well, you said you can't beat it, that implies that it's the best Oh well, my misunderstanding. Sorry 'bout that.

One of my mates says that his semi-synth is the best as well, I wasn't just talking about this thread.

[Cubes]

Synthetic is definately the best 'theoretically' but in practise does it really make that much difference?

My old mans cab used HPR15 and did 900,000kays, it was a little tired but didn't blow any smoke. Head had never been off either.

Still running fine when he sold it. I sometimes doubt that synthetic in a road car makes that much difference?!?

But thats the old Ford 250 Motors for you..

My uncles cab that was a VL had done over 100,000,000kays and still running. He cracked 2 heads however. but thats holdens fault. Not sure what oil he used but most probably just valvoline or some crap.

[JimX]

I would say that if you drove your NA, unmodified Skyline like a taxi that you could easily get by with cheap mineral oil too.

[Cubes]

Then again this is a bike rider that I am talking to.

I do drive fairly easy most of the time with only small squirts etc.. Not holding it out hammering it so Mineral oil will do my driving style fine.

If I were to race then I would obviously run Synthetic as you want to run the best of everything to keep maintance down.

Then again my car is only worth at most 15grand so what is the point of running oil that is 60bucks a pop every 5k when i rack up 60,000kays in 1.5years.

[skyr33]

BP Visco5000 is 7.5/30.Fast fours did a test on oils a while back.They ran an engine on the engine dyno with many different oils and sent oil and filter to the lab.They mesured power increase and metal partice size from each oil and BP gave good power increase and engine wear was 3rd best out of about 10 or 12 others.I dont remember all oter brands,but all major synthetic ones were tested.I used to get that ticking sound in my pulsar while running Mobil1,Royal Purple,Shell and Castrol.All synthetics basically.Within a few days of putting BP in the noise has gone.I was also hesitant to change the oil after 5k as I usually did because oil still looked very clean.

[Cubes]

How much is some of that BP stuff?

[Duncan]

Originally posted by -Joel-

My uncles cab that was a VL had done over 100,000,000kays and still running. He cracked 2 heads however. but thats holdens fault. Not sure what oil he used but most probably just valvoline or some crap.

Interesting, my father in law works in car parts, reakons that VLs have a huge problem with heads cracking - havent heard of the same in the r31 skyline. Not sure what the difference is.

[Cubes]

The VL motor sits a little higher with comparison to the radiator than the R31 Skyline.. Hence more chance of bad air locks when the overflow runs dry. R31's have the motor sitting lower hence basically level with the radiator so the air locks don't sit in the head like the VL's do.

As long as you keep the overflow bottle topped up and don't let it run dry in a VL you shouldn't have a problem. However in Hipo VL's the still occasionally do due to the amount of heat produced hence boiling water in the head and causing air locks that way. AVO make a header tank that sits above the head to stop this.