Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

;)

just weighing up my options...

ok firstly i know the odds are against me in thins department. i got 275s in the rear and 245s up front. ive been reading through some old threads and

have come up with:

1. dont lower the car on standard shocks (thanks sydneykid) bad bad bad! (which i woundnt do anyway)

2.dont cut springs.. (no way in hell!)

3.make sure you have a good combination of spring rate and shocks.. :thumbsup:

-now having these wheels i assume if im going to get it lowered im going to have to pump guards?? or at least lip them.?

-if anyone is in or has been in a similar situation, what have you done that works good for you??

i dont mind a stiff ride, no track use.. ect.. and it doesnt have to be LOWW!!! just sitting nicley

what springs and shock combo would be good considering my situation?? price roughly??

oh.. and is pumping the guards a massive deal? as in time and money?

Edited by jake33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171946-19s-and-lowering/
Share on other sites

Can you post up a pic of your car currently, the one in your sig. is too small. I would like to see how the car sits, and how close to the gaurd your wheels come (from the inside)

Here is a pic of mine. At one stage i did have 275's at the rear, but later found out they where not recomended/legal on 8" wide rims

post-1811-1181303179_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1181303190_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1181303203_thumb.jpg

yeah the rear are 9.5 and the front 8 or 8.5. hard to judge by the pics but the outside of the tyre and wheel sit straight inline with the wheel arch/body. so they dont stick out or anything..

as i said i dont want its dumped on its arse, just sitting a bit (inch maybe) lower than it is now.

cheers

post-35246-1181353811_thumb.jpg

post-35246-1181354143_thumb.jpg

Thanks Jake.

At motokana days, the tyres use to rub, but that is obviously under extreme cornering through witches hats and slaloms, etc. But is all depends on the suspension you have fitted on your car.

Can you measure the current distance from the centre of the wheel up to the centre of the arch on the gaurd: front and rear.

post-1811-1181402802_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.
    • It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
    • Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.
    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
×
×
  • Create New...