Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Firstly appologies if this gets posted twice but either my nets up the shit or something funky is goin on with the sau site.

Anyhoo, a few days ago I installed Endless CC-x pads all round along with a brake fluid bleed replaced with Motul RBF600.

obviously im still in my bed in period but the intense squeeling coming from the rears is discusting. Under heavy braking they are relatively silent (which is good as they are bought for track day reasons). But with the less intense preasure used on the street the squeel is huge.. and appears to be getting worse.

Whats happened on my drive home tonight is that the brakes squeel from the touch of the pedal till stop, but now when im at about 15kmph or less a much deeper vibrating, almost grinding sound seems to start to sneak in.

is this just what happens at bed in with these pads or is something a bit funky going on?

I would love to get this sorted asap as its almost making the car undrivable, and a threat to my life from angry people near me.

(oh and i have done a search but returned nothing that came near my issue)

Cheers

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172207-endless-cc-x-break-in/
Share on other sites

Hey mate. FYI my ccx rears don't squeel much anymore but they are a pretty aggressive pad and will squeel a bit. My front do all the time. ccx's might be a bit track oriented if you wanted street (quiet) pads.

There shouldn't be any grinding when bedding in though.. I'd be checking installation. Did you do it yourself? Check the clips and rods that hold the pads in place.

ive got the same pads and after a while of light braking mine start to squeel really bad and i sometimes get the humming type of sound that you are describing. This only happens to my front brakes though. Ive been told that slotted rotors should fix the problem as it gets rid of all the brake dust.

I would also like to know a fix to this if anyone has one.

BTW my pads are definately installed correctly.

Mike.

Hey mate. FYI my ccx rears don't squeel much anymore but they are a pretty aggressive pad and will squeel a bit. My front do all the time. ccx's might be a bit track oriented if you wanted street (quiet) pads.

I did buy them for track purposes but if im able to leave them in the car between meets it would be an advantage.. My fronts dont squeal at all even under light braking.. just the rears..

There shouldn't be any grinding when bedding in though.. I'd be checking installation. Did you do it yourself? Check the clips and rods that hold the pads in place.

I did do the install myself, but im pretty confident its all AOK.. I'll check em out this arvo to make sure.

Checked the rear pad fitment and everything is fine... so doesnt appear anything in the installation is causing the noise

how much $$$ are the endless cc-x pads to buy.

i cant find my receipt but i think all 4 corners cost me $500.. possibly $600.

Depending on what calipers you have you will be able to get them cheaper off the net. I think nengun sell em for about $411, but you'll have to wait a while for them to arrive.

Did you use anti-squeal shims with either grease or that brake silencing goo? If not, then the installation is probably the problem. The Nissan shim kit comes with some grease to use with the shims, but i just used the red CBC brake squeal goo (should be able to get it any spare parts shop) to 'glue' the caliper pistons to one of the shims, and the rear of the pad to the other shim. There was a little grease left between the shims. No squealing at all :)

Did you use anti-squeal shims with either grease or that brake silencing goo? If not, then the installation is probably the problem. The Nissan shim kit comes with some grease to use with the shims, but i just used the red CBC brake squeal goo (should be able to get it any spare parts shop) to 'glue' the caliper pistons to one of the shims, and the rear of the pad to the other shim. There was a little grease left between the shims. No squealing at all :)

I certainly have shims in place but i will investigate some brake grease/glue, thanks. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Great to hear you are bringing it out of the shed again. Unless you have specific issues I'd just add the wideband, get a good tune and enjoy it. Certainly no point changing coils etc if they are working. If would add fuel pressure and e85 sensor if you are doing a general update but not if it runs OK and you are just getting it back on track. The other thing is smaller, modern twins, -5 are OK for motorsport but pretty laggy and old tech for street use (of course, if performance is the priority a modern single with twin scroll manifold etc is the go but not cheap). The final thing worth considering is switching to an ethrottle if drivability is still an issue, it should make things a lot simpler and smoother
    • Yeah pretty sure they are m4, but best to check, and perhaps use new hardware Also don't over torque them......there was that one time I lost an expensive engine after a workshop overtorqued one of those bolts and it ended up in the oil pump (no, I don't know why they removed the intake mesh either)
    • I might have to shoot them an email. Pity the exchange rate is so bad at the moment. BTW, thanks for posting that table makes interesting reading. 
    • Add these Sensors -Wideband, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Intake air temp Good inspection of ignition system of coils, plugs and loom (12v feed and good ground)- a r35 kit is best bang for buck upgrade. A decent tuner should be able to see any issues with the trigger system- a link has good filtering but a good simple upgrade is the nz wiring bolt in kit. Check and replace all the fuel filters- you would be surprised at intank filter after a few years. Also good to check for any leaks on vac hoses and pipe work as has been said. No need to go overboard and spend big $$$ to enjoy the car. A quality tuner is getting harder to find as anyone with a laptop thinks they are a tuner. A link has great features to check sensor voltages and frequency inputs and easy to see live by pressing f12. The link can do a TPS & RPM fuel/ignition mapping on ITB cars then add a 4D table with MAP and ability to add a 5D to it (can help with economy at cruise with wheel speed vs TPS) Where are you located as that will help narrow down a good tuner ?
    • Reviving an old thread, I reckon my stagea is starting to slip. Car usually gets parked on a hill, narrow driveway so cant go up the driveway smoothly, anyhows, lately first gear feels "sluggish"? Not responsive. Feels like I gotta run the engine more than usual to get off the line...  Any recommendations for transmission servicing in Sydney? Or possibly just an excuse to go manual ?
×
×
  • Create New...