Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just after some advice,

I do not like looking at that MASSIVE Factory nismo spoiler on my r34 gtt coupe (the wrap over) :rolleyes:

Been thinking of removing the thing... does anyone have any advice?

Cost, level of work and maybe a place that does it?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172229-removing-that-ugly-spoiler/
Share on other sites

there are a lot of bolt holes if you remove the spoiler, I asked around about welding and leveling the holes, quite expensive.. I think asking over $1k

Ohh mann.. what the hell is with these japs and massive spoilers!! loll there i was thinking wen i bought it ohh yehh its not a big deal it'll pop off

cheers, anyone else please?

that's a load of crap, over $1k my arse.

But look, the reality is you will have to get the holes welded again then the whole boot will have to be repainted.

Here's the drill - to repain whole boot you will be looking at at least $300.00, welding should cost around $100.

Without further details on whether you want to go wingless or install another wing - I can only assume you will go wingless - if this is the case, then you you will be looking at around $500.00 max for this exercise.

On the other hand, if you want another wing - then of course you will have to buy one (price depends on the wing) then get it professional painted which will be another $250 or so, so yeah.... that's it in a nutshell.

Actually, talking about the R34 Nismo wing... I actually have it on my r33... I have a drift wing on it, then a bit further in, I got this wing without the wrap-around, looks aggressive as.

I would suggest that you take the wrap-around off and just leave the wing on it's on free-standing - looks aggressive as - but yeah, I would also move it in a bit, it's sticking too much towards the end of the boot which makes it look awkard.

good luck.

HAHAA yeah i heard that once from someone!

Yeh well sounds like the side things will have to go, would repainting cost a fair bit for the rear sides? how much would i need to paint there?

Bro, if you shop around you should be able to do this under $800.00. You gotta shop around bro.

Good luck.

HAHAA yeah i heard that once from someone!

Yeh well sounds like the side things will have to go, would repainting cost a fair bit for the rear sides? how much would i need to paint there?

Were you at Thornleigh maccas when you heard it? cause thats the last place i said it :)

t

Actually, talking about the R34 Nismo wing... I actually have it on my r33... I have a drift wing on it, then a bit further in, I got this wing without the wrap-around, looks aggressive as.

good luck.

Can I see a pic? I'm intrigued!

i removed my wing

got small plugs to fill the holes

cheap and effective

wing on

wing off

wing on

wing off

Are we talking about the same wing here?

Coz the R34 altia wing or nismo wing has about 7 gaping holes on the rear quarter panels where the corner parts of the wing are fixed...

ADZR34: I was thinking exactly the same when I bought my car... not a problem, I'll just take off the corner parts when I get home. Man did I get a rude shock!

The best quote I've got so far is $600 to take the corners off, $900 if I wanted the centre piece off aswell. That's to weld the holes shut & repaint the whole area. I'd have had it done already if not for getting my rims, & Intercooler first etc.

The scary thing is, the wing is actually starting to grow on me lol I'd better get it done soon before i start liking it.

Everyone at my work had the same reaction, they thought it was hideous but now they like it :)

Are we talking about the same wing here?

Coz the R34 altia wing or nismo wing has about 7 gaping holes on the rear quarter panels where the corner parts of the wing are fixed...

ADZR34: I was thinking exactly the same when I bought my car... not a problem, I'll just take off the corner parts when I get home. Man did I get a rude shock!

The best quote I've got so far is $600 to take the corners off, $900 if I wanted the centre piece off aswell. That's to weld the holes shut & repaint the whole area. I'd have had it done already if not for getting my rims, & Intercooler first etc.

The scary thing is, the wing is actually starting to grow on me lol I'd better get it done soon before i start liking it.

Everyone at my work had the same reaction, they thought it was hideous but now they like it :D

Exactly! such a shock for me LOL.. bastard wont come off..

oh well see i was thinking, here guys help me out... if i remove the whole spoiler off and swap it for the standard one will the holes on the boot match up and screw to fit the standard spoiler??

and one more thing where did u get that qoute for $600?? pj

Exactly! such a shock for me LOL.. bastard wont come off..

oh well see i was thinking, here guys help me out... if i remove the whole spoiler off and swap it for the standard one will the holes on the boot match up and screw to fit the standard spoiler??

and one more thing where did u get that qoute for $600?? pj

lol I got the bastard off eventually, just left 7 Humongous holes in the quarter panels.

Spoiler part on the boot should use the same bolt holes. Car companies like to make interchangeable parts to save money

Quote was from extreme bodykits in Wetherill Park Sydney, $600 for just the quarter panels. $900 to remove the spoiler aswell altogether.

Although he did the bodykit on my old R33 so he gave me a better price than usual.

Edited by Yo-Yo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
    • I only recently purchased the vehicle, it came with the flex setup but the current tune is e85 only, which is why im wanting to get the tune redone to enable a mixture.  First i need to get the exhaust redone tho. I was thinking of getting a varex muffler but it sems they dont fit well in the 33 (hang low because of the valve mechanism which sticks out on top) and generally dont sound good. So that leaves me with redoing the entire exhaust (more resonators and mufflers) so its not a menace when i come and go from home, and then have the aes dump valve somewhere along the line to really open it up. I was thinking of having it before the cat but after seeing how insanely loud it will be (on a vl turbo) im thinking of putting it more towards the rear of the car, after one of the resonators. 
    • At this point I'm just 'hoping' it's the turbo seals. I did speak to someone who said it's normal for these turbos to have a bit of axial play? Not gonna lie I've never checked a turbo for axial play before but you could hear it tapping a bit as I moved it back and forth. Surely that's too much? My theory is (could be completely wrong), bad axial play, worn bearings, bad seals, oil into dump/compressor side, burns in exhaust = blue smoke. On a timing belt related note, my crank pulley was missing that front plate that sits in front of the timing belt. It's that metal round plate. It did have the rear one, and the woodruff keys are in the crank which was nice. Can anyone confirm if the NEO det engine has a front plate, im sure it would to protect the front of the timing belt or something. Water pumps...the pump I got was an NPW (yes grill me if I should've got a genuine one lol). It has a smooth mating surface, kit came with a pretty pathetic looking paper gasket. Do I need to use any RTV or just trust the gasket will work because its a smooth mating surface? Cheers legends have a good Easter break!
×
×
  • Create New...