Jump to content
SAU Community

Smoked Style R33 Tail Lights

sam5709

By sam5709,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

sam5709 Grand Master

sam5709

Posted
Posted

i know its been brought up a couple times before but i cant find any of the threads,

just wondering if any one would know were to buy smoked r33 tail lights, i know they exist but are pretty rare :rolleyes:

just wanna know where i may locate a set :thumbsup:

sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172232-smoked-style-r33-tail-lights/
Share on other sites
Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted
i know its been brought up a couple times before but i cant find any of the threads,

just wondering if any one would know were to buy smoked r33 tail lights, i know they exist but are pretty rare :rolleyes:

just wanna know where i may locate a set :thumbsup:

sam

can you provide us with a picture - don't quite get you, but if you're asking for what I think you are asking for, then I might know of a place that can sell you these.

provide more details and I will try to help you out mate.

regards,

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

that looks like a very custom job... the glass on the inside is normally red in colour, its not the bulb that makes it red...

i dont know where you would get something like that... perhaps from the people that make spares or something, before they colour them?

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
they are the "active-k" tail lights.

from japan... they used to pop up on yahoo auctions a fair bit..

i looked into getting some in last year, they were $800 + delivery + etc... and went f**k it

they aren't "active-k" tail-lights, the owner did it himself,

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

That car used to be up here in Townsville (Not sure if it still is, might be) im pretty sure the tail lights still lit up red. Very interesting tail lights to see in real life, and if i remeber correctly (this is going to be hard to describe), on our red R33 tail lights, the actual red cover is like a smoothed over one piece, however those white ones arent smooth and you can actually put your hand inside and feal like the steps of the tail light........get what i mean?? :D

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted
That car used to be up here in Townsville (Not sure if it still is, might be) im pretty sure the tail lights still lit up red. Very interesting tail lights to see in real life, and if i remeber correctly (this is going to be hard to describe), on our red R33 tail lights, the actual red cover is like a smoothed over one piece, however those white ones arent smooth and you can actually put your hand inside and feal like the steps of the tail light........get what i mean?? :D

im trying to get onto the huy that made them! any other way of getting in contact wid them would be great

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Havn't seen the car for about 4 months now so not sure if it is still here, i spoke to the guy that owned it a couple of times but i never asked about the tail lights.. D'oh!

However i remember thinking to myself when i saw them up close is that it looked as if the owner had just somehow taken of the red lens that covered the tail light and underneath it was the clear grooves....? Does anyone know wether thats what the tail lights look underneath the factory red lens??? Come on who has smashed a rear tail light and knows :D

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

alright... who wants to touch me?

the ones i've pictured ARE the active-k tail lights

although their site doesn't show their company anymore.

post-9983-1181704313_thumb.jpg

edit: stupid computer

- which i think means they arent in business anymore.

- i remember a mob in melbourne used to sell them (it was an s13/14 drift orientated site, that also sold the r324 bee*r kits) - for the life of me i cant remember the name... shit

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted
alright... who wants to touch me?

the ones i've pictured ARE the active-k tail lights

although their site doesn't show their company anymore.

post-9983-1181704313_thumb.jpg

edit: stupid computer

- which i think means they arent in business anymore.

- i remember a mob in melbourne used to sell them (it was an s13/14 drift orientated site, that also sold the r324 bee*r kits) - for the life of me i cant remember the name... shit

cool they look hot what were they worth?

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted
the owner is on sauwa SL33KGTS (will he was the owner untill untill he sold it, he did the tail-lights)

Cheers Michael

mate do you kno how to find him so i can message him? search isnt working for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...