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ak_stylez

By ak_stylez,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted
ive got a series 2, but i thought it still needed cutting?

what power is the arc 105mm core good up to?

Im pretty sure but not 100% that no cutting is required. my mate was thinking about replacing his front bar with a series 2 bar cos it didnt need cutting. he didnt end up doing it cos of family stuff

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Yawn Mentor

Yawn

Posted
Posted
14 will be safe, if your has the supporting mods.

AS for stock turbo untuned, you will get more response and power by running less boost.

Just because you run 14psi doesnt mean your car will going any faster.

Run 0.8 bar max.

That is 10psi.

I can gurantee you the responce will be much better with lower amount of boost.

Once your car is tuned to run a little higher boost then go for it.

Get a 34 side mount, which can handle up to 200-210kw.

ARC are to pricey. 34 cooler will do the job fine.

Why would a car running lower boost be more responsive than a car running higher boost? Do you mean to say a stock turbo with a max 10psi will reach the 10psi faster than a stock turbo running 14 psi would reach 10psi? Or do you mean to say the turbo running 10psi will seem more responsive because it has a lower max boost and therefore reaches it quicker than it would reach 14psi?

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siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted (edited)

^

For -- (stock ecu, turbo, smic)

1) you car will be running rich firstly.. Every skyline does!! lol

2) You will see more flat spots with higher boost levels..

3) Running high amounts- your plugs may foul up.. So you need to regap the size.. to make up for it..

4) From personal experience and seing it from friends car, when they first started.

5) on a hot day, having that bit extra psi or so wont help you at all.. Car will feel slugish when you really push it, more so with higher boost..

Im just speaking from experience, and i maybe im wrong.. Your car may act differently..

But i found that running that bit less boost, made my car more responsive.. ie i turned it down from 0.8 to .7 bar

FACT: At the drags.. Im like lets run more boost.. at 0.8 i got like 14.5 at best for 3-4 runs.. A guy suggested to me at the drags to turn it down.. so i did one notch.. got a best of 14.0 flat..

BUT who knows, maybe my reaction time was just better...

Maybe others can back me up on this?

either way my car feels better runnin a bit less boost.. that is 0.7-0.75 bar.. I felt no flat spots at track day..

and i still got stock ecu, turbo and smic..

i noticed you posted in that 34 wreck thread from some time ago, the guy was selling his cooler for 80 bucks. did you end up buying?

rang him the night before to confirm meet up.. he goes his dad ran over it?? hmmm

250 does seem pricey.. But they normally start at that price and drop down.. to 150-200

Cost that much because they know its a cheap upgrade for the 33..

on a side note, what is everyone's opinion of china cores?

Very good coolers.. They do the job.. 0-300kw.. has been proven..

Many threads on this topic..

Cores are all the same.. Comes down to which copy has the better pipings..

AS for cutting the bar on the s2, i will confirm with you tonight. My friend does cooler installs.. So i will ask him about the series 2..

Otherwise im sure there are heaps of members on here with s2, with fmic..

Edited by siddr20
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bloodsword27 Veteran

bloodsword27

Posted
Posted
Im pretty sure but not 100% that no cutting is required. my mate was thinking about replacing his front bar with a series 2 bar cos it didnt need cutting. he didnt end up doing it cos of family stuff

i was at Bel Garage one day when they were isntalling a JJR fmic into a R33 s2. they said that if you do it right then you wont need to cut anything away ie fan baldes, front bar..etc..

i have an Apexi front mount with same side return piping which costed an arm and a leg which didnt need hacking either. small core but does the job easily.

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SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

well ive actually helped a mate install a just jap front mount in his series 2 skyline, this was a few years ago and im 100% certain that we had to cut some of the bar ( on the bottom of the hole under the 2 lights in the bar) because the piping was hitting against and we couldnt put the bar back on. not sure if anything else had to be cut.

But wen we finished it looked very neat, and you couldnt tell we cut anything

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ak_stylez Community Regular

ak_stylez

Posted
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Posted (edited)

to all the people that said they'd double check, any confirmations that its possible to install a fmic with absolutely NO cutting?

SiR RB: Id expect Just Jap, like other generic core/pipings, to need bar modifications but a brand name cooler might not.

Edited by ak_stylez
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rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just fitted an R34 intercooler to my series 1 stagea. It cost me $80. Bunged it in on the weekend. There is the obvious difference in size but also if you examine the cooling fins they are perforated on the R34 intercooler meaning greater surface area to volume ratios for heat transfer.

It has all the power headroom I need for a 220awkw-ish turbo upgrade. I am also going to run a set of cams in the motor later on so the average power will be significantly up adding to the potential heat load but, I am completely unconcerned about heat soak and the abillity of the R34 intercooler to do a decent job. A water spray kit gives me everything back I might lose on a sustained flogging and costs bugger all to make.

You can skin a cat lots of ways. The R34 intercooler is a good stepping stone till you make your mind up about the actual power goals and how much money you don't have to spend on other important supporting mods.

Edited by rev210
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