Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Struggles To Start When Cold


Recommended Posts

My R33 struggles to start from cold. In the morning I'll start it and will need to really pump the accelerator before it will take. Every other start after that will be fine, but the next morning it struggles again. I always leave it on ignition only for a few seconds for the whole thing to get ready before I actually start.

From reading just about half the posts on SAU I have found that this is a fairly common problem and there are many possible causes :worship:

I think I have narrowed it down though and need some other opinions

I have a volt meter in my car and when starting it will drop to about 8 volts... from what I understand... this is way too low

If I understand correctly, this is caused by the starter motor arcing due to worn brushes

I was thinking of getting a starter motor from a wreck and swapping them over to test the result

Does this seem like the logical next step? Does anyone have any other opinions on the problem?

My car is a '93 R33 Series I GTS

In summer when the temperature is higher, the car starts fine, but the voltage still goes to around 8 volts.

Thanks... really want this sorted :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check your sparkplugs, running high-octaine fuel? got your car serviced recently?

8 volts is a bit low, on standard I think my car stays on like 12 volts or something. Also, have you checked your battery - enough charge in there - here's an inexpensive thing you could try - bring it to a mechanic, as him to fully charge up your battery for you - would cost around $20.00 or something, then see how you go. I've noticed with my car if I don't drive it enough, sometimes it will die down a bit.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My battery is brand new... found the most powerful one that would fit in the space

I tried putting in new spark plugs, but no change and I always use BP Ultimate 98RON

Didn't know about the oil though... I replaced the oil a few months back, can't remember the viscosity, but it was recomended to me by the mechanic for my car and its k's, so should be ok

Any other ideas? When I start it after its already been started once in the day, the voltage doesn't drop as far. It drops to about 10 volts. Its only the first start on a cold morning that it drops really low and struggles.

Thanks for the input so far guys :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not too sure mate, I think it depends on how worn out your engine I think. The more worn/old it is, the thicker the oil should be. I don't know much about oils honestly.

Hopefully someone who does know will come and give their recommendations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey adam

i have the same car and the same problem..with mine it clicks over first time but the rev's are very low like its going to die but after a second the rev;s jump up the correct idle...

interested to find out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well boys i have had this same issue over the past 6 months, and it's a common thing, but belive me there is no sollution that i found.

I had replaced everything in the car, electrical that is, all new sensors, and test and so forht, you name it we tried it, eaven a new set of injectors, no good, then one day it came good, no idea how or why, but has been fine everysince. So bugga.

It's a pain in the ass to find too, seing as you only get one chance a day to diagnose it.

Personaly, i would start by cleaning your AFM. Also test or buy a new Engine temperature sensor, as this oftern plays havoc with the car. also put a new fuel fulter in the car and get the injecotrs cleaned, it may be that one is leaking a bit.

After that it's all trial and error.

I had new AAC valve, CAS, AFM, TP, ECu temp sensor, ECU, COILS, ect ect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks WogsRus... In my many hours of searching the forum I read heaps of things you had written... I will be trying all these things and hopefully don't struggle as much as you did :)

It may take a while to test each thing, because, as you said, you can only test what you tried once a day... I'll keep this post updated each weekend I try and make progress for all the others with the same problem... hopefully we get it sorted out ;)

If anyone else has any more insight, please let me know

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey adam

i have the same car and the same problem..with mine it clicks over first time but the rev's are very low like its going to die but after a second the rev;s jump up the correct idle...

interested to find out

Any chance you've got a fmic installed? I noticed that I had to blimp my throttle everytime I start the car in the mornings for it to get going after I installed my fmic. Not sure why it happened after the installation of the cooler, but I've had to. A little blimp of the throttle to get the car going isn't a big deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when you crank a car it's getting pretty close to a short circuit across the battery (you pull a LOT of amps) so the voltage will definitely drop - 10V would be a GOOD figure. 8V is probably normal.

maybe the cold start sensor is buggered or something? I assume there's a coolant temp sensor that's different to the one that runs your gauge....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had the same probly on my r32 i cleaned acc valve ect but havent cleaned the one under the plenium yet... but ive found it struggles on cold mornings like you but lately ive been putting the siliencer in my exhaust in the morning when i start it and let it warm up bcoz my cars very loud.... and its always starts first time no worries with the siliencer in its quite funny... :D good luck who knows what the real problem is behind it but everyones car seems to do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I started my car the other day (r33) and as Idont drive it often it struggles in cold also.

It actually seemed like my coils as it sounded a bit like a rexy, did that for about 3 seconds and then ever again.

Must admit also there was a different smell coming out of the exhaust - bit like a kero smell rather than fuel!

weird.

I try and start it now once a day

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...