Blood For Your New Engine

[Turbz_13]

just wonderting what oil everyone uses in their engines but now just every engine. the rebuild suckers with say 2000km's up on the clock(ie. after the run in period)

cheers!

also what should the oil pressure (say the guage) read/be in in gt-r's with rb26's at say 1000rpm, 3000rpm and 7500rpm(or red line) for these engines??? using a standard oil pump.

Edited June 14, 2007 by Turbz_13

[Simon-S14]

for run in? the cheapest shittiest bilo brand mineral oil possible.. and once it is run in then go a full syntehtic.. like mobil 1

[R31Nismoid]

Castrol Edge 10-60 from the very first turnover

[sky30]

Castrol Edge 10-60 from the very first turnover

I was under the impression that running a synthetic for running in was bad as it willl glaze the bores and not let the rings bed in.

[Guilt-Toy]

get the valvoline running in oil. use it for 2000k's then whack in some mineral oil and use mineral oil for 2 changes like gtx3 or something similar. after the engine has done around 15,000km's then go fully synthetic.

Do it this way and your engine will wear in better

[Turbz_13]

good stuff guys!. i was just curious as to what everyone was using. i mean my engine has been run in and has almost done 5000km's. but i thought id check. im just letting the workshop that did the over haul use what everm oil they think but i thought it was a tad think for an rb26, specially a new one

[Modena]

Mineral oil first, then after around 5 K switch to fully synthetic. DAFS.

[STATUS]

Castrol Edge 10-60 from the very first turnover

Some castrol facts;

The name comes from Castor oil which is ok, they then turned their hand to esters.... and failed giving synthetics thier bad reputation early on in the piece.. they no longer use ester... it is left to oil professionals.

did you know that castrol/Penrite Sin fully synthetics are actually only partial synthetics? the only full synthetics in australia have to say 100% synthetic on the bottle.... stoopid loop hole in consumer law.

Also to achieve a wide spread of 10-60 (penrite too) you need to add alot of additives these additives are not lubricous therefore actually reduce and dilute the amount of lubricant in the oil....

[Beer Baron]

Some castrol facts;

The name comes from Castor oil which is ok, they then turned their hand to esters.... and failed giving synthetics thier bad reputation early on in the piece.. they no longer use ester... it is left to oil professionals like redline, motul and a few other boutique oils.

did you know that castrol fully synthetics are actually only partial synthetics? the only full synthetics in australia have to say 100% synthetic on the bottle.... stoopid loop hole in consumer law.

Also to achieve a wide spread of 10-60 (penrite is worse) you need to add alot of additives these additives are not lubricous therefore actually reduce the amount of lubricant in the oil....

which are some of the many reasons I now only use motul chrono 300V, which is ester base, and full synthetic. plus being only a 10/40 does not need nearly so many friction modifiers. it's a great oil.

[STATUS]

which are some of the many reasons I now only use motul chrono 300V, which is ester base, and full synthetic. plus being only a 10/40 does not need nearly so many friction modifiers. it's a great oil.

haha yeah i remmeber that bathurst where the sponsored Castrol car is pumping in tins of Motul 300V in the pits

[R31Nismoid]

I just use what im told by my builder

I trust him to know whats good for the motor he made.

Good info though either way.

[Turbz_13]

also what should the oil pressure (say the guage) read/be in in gt-r's with rb26's at say 1000rpm, 3000rpm and 7500rpm(or red line) for these engines???

Edited June 14, 2007 by Turbz_13

[Turbz_13]

surely someone knows this!

[rob82]

I just use what im told by my builder

I trust him to know whats good for the motor he made.

Good info though either way.

What spec grain size does he hone to run a synthetic oil from initial build are you using specillised rings? I prefer to use a mineral based oil for the first 100 -200k and then swap to a synthetic. If the rings havn't bedded in the first 100 -200 k then your in trouble - the will however continue to fully bed by around the 500k mark tho.

[r33_racer]

When you assemble the motor dont use oil in the bore. Use a crc like inox to lube the bore up for the first start of the motor. Bore cant glaze up and it helps bed the rings in extremely well.

We use motul also, 300v lemans.

Edited June 15, 2007 by r33_racer

[discopotato03]

Some castrol facts;

The name comes from Castor oil which is ok, they then turned their hand to esters.... and failed giving synthetics thier bad reputation early on in the piece.. they no longer use ester... it is left to oil professionals.

did you know that castrol/Penrite Sin fully synthetics are actually only partial synthetics? the only full synthetics in australia have to say 100% synthetic on the bottle.... stoopid loop hole in consumer law.

Also to achieve a wide spread of 10-60 (penrite too) you need to add alot of additives these additives are not lubricous therefore actually reduce and dilute the amount of lubricant in the oil....

If you do some research into engine oil you'll find the lower number is a cold pouring index not a cold viscosity reference . Could you imagine a lubricating oil with a viscosity rating of 10 at 20 Deg C and 60 at 80+Deg C ? It doesn't work like that .

Good synthetic oils pour quite freely at temperatures significantly below zero C so pumping it round the system in cold areas is not the issue it once was .

If you look at good factory workshop manuals they tend to specify oil viscosity based on the temperature of the environment its used in . Obviously the colder it is the lower the viscosity oil is recommended which makes me think maintaining adequate oil pressure is oil temperature dependant .

I did talk to SK once about Castrol Edge 10/60 , he likes it and uses it with no probs I can remember . I'd like something a little lighter in the winter time and he said yes theres probably a small power gain to be had from a tad less oil drag . I don't thrash cars on the street so I probably don't need the oil to have the ability to get really hot to the point where pressure becomes an issue . If I did then a healthy oil cooler thermostatically controlled would cover most eventualities I think .

Cheers A .

[Oblivion]

Factory nissan recommends 7W30 i believe for rb engines....atm as my engine is older i am using Castrol Edge 10W60. havent had a problem yet. On a rebuilt engine i would be using a run in oil, and then a 7W30 or 5W50 or something and keep changing everyine few thousand.

[T04GTR]

5 DOLLAR CRAP for 500kays. and abit of boost abit of revs and no ideling or cruising

[Spoolup]

Cheap shit oils for run in is an old wives tail. Run in needs full lubrication as everything is tight.

Good quality mineral oil for run in - approx 500 -1000 km.

Then either stick with the good mineral oil or go fully synthetic.

[Spoolup]

Cheap shit oils for run in is an old wives tail. Run in needs full lubrication as everything is tight.

Good quality mineral oil for run in - approx 500 -1000 km.

Then either stick with the good mineral oil or go fully synthetic.