Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used penrite-running in oil as I wasn't keen on cheapo bilo oil and since have run motul 8100 5w40. Its a 'true' grp 4 base stock synthetic.

Sure the castrol oils may work ok but if I pay good $$ for a full synthetic oil I expect a full synthetic oil.

Not to be ripped off with some grp 3 base stock that is claimed to be 'almost' as good as a grp 4 base stock synthetic.

Motul; you really cannot go wrong.

----

Spoolup; what run-in oil would you suggest? I did consider using the plain old castrol gtx that doesn't have non-friction modifiers..

The penrite running in oil I used is most likely recycled oil also but it was $28 for 5ltrs so not super cheap.

Mines still running well; travelled 60,000km's with forged pistons, king bimetal's and still compression tests the same as it did after run in.

Still doesn't use a drop of oil and oil pressure it good. :thumbsup:

5 DOLLAR CRAP for 500kays. and abit of boost abit of revs and no ideling or cruising

hi,

why do you say "no ideling or cruising"? i thought the opposite -- that i have to be tender with a new engine. I will have the "first start" in a week or two. I thought that it will be good for the engine to idle for a few hours and after that -- to cruise off-boost for a few hours.

Its well known never to be tender with a new motor.

Lots of load in bursts; different amounts of load and at different rpm's. I drove mine along the seafront with lots of round abouts so lots of slowing down with hard acceleration. I disconnected my turbo's actuator so I could give it some up to 4000rpm without it instantly pushing 11-12psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...