Jump to content
SAU Community

Blood For Your New Engine


Recommended Posts

If you do some research into engine oil

i deal with oil companies everyday. i know exactly what works and what doesnt..... and who promotes bullshit and who doesnt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used penrite-running in oil as I wasn't keen on cheapo bilo oil and since have run motul 8100 5w40. Its a 'true' grp 4 base stock synthetic.

Sure the castrol oils may work ok but if I pay good $$ for a full synthetic oil I expect a full synthetic oil.

Not to be ripped off with some grp 3 base stock that is claimed to be 'almost' as good as a grp 4 base stock synthetic.

Motul; you really cannot go wrong.

----

Spoolup; what run-in oil would you suggest? I did consider using the plain old castrol gtx that doesn't have non-friction modifiers..

The penrite running in oil I used is most likely recycled oil also but it was $28 for 5ltrs so not super cheap.

Mines still running well; travelled 60,000km's with forged pistons, king bimetal's and still compression tests the same as it did after run in.

Still doesn't use a drop of oil and oil pressure it good. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 DOLLAR CRAP for 500kays. and abit of boost abit of revs and no ideling or cruising

hi,

why do you say "no ideling or cruising"? i thought the opposite -- that i have to be tender with a new engine. I will have the "first start" in a week or two. I thought that it will be good for the engine to idle for a few hours and after that -- to cruise off-boost for a few hours.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its well known never to be tender with a new motor.

Lots of load in bursts; different amounts of load and at different rpm's. I drove mine along the seafront with lots of round abouts so lots of slowing down with hard acceleration. I disconnected my turbo's actuator so I could give it some up to 4000rpm without it instantly pushing 11-12psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive found a good grade mineral or semi-synth oil is best as you still need the oil to give protection as proper engine run-in requires that you load the engine up ie up hil high gear low revs which loads up the bearings

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You all are absolute legends! Thank you for helping me put this into context with your comparisons!
    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
×
×
  • Create New...