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Blood For Your New Engine


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If you do some research into engine oil

i deal with oil companies everyday. i know exactly what works and what doesnt..... and who promotes bullshit and who doesnt.

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I used penrite-running in oil as I wasn't keen on cheapo bilo oil and since have run motul 8100 5w40. Its a 'true' grp 4 base stock synthetic.

Sure the castrol oils may work ok but if I pay good $$ for a full synthetic oil I expect a full synthetic oil.

Not to be ripped off with some grp 3 base stock that is claimed to be 'almost' as good as a grp 4 base stock synthetic.

Motul; you really cannot go wrong.

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Spoolup; what run-in oil would you suggest? I did consider using the plain old castrol gtx that doesn't have non-friction modifiers..

The penrite running in oil I used is most likely recycled oil also but it was $28 for 5ltrs so not super cheap.

Mines still running well; travelled 60,000km's with forged pistons, king bimetal's and still compression tests the same as it did after run in.

Still doesn't use a drop of oil and oil pressure it good. :thumbsup:

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5 DOLLAR CRAP for 500kays. and abit of boost abit of revs and no ideling or cruising

hi,

why do you say "no ideling or cruising"? i thought the opposite -- that i have to be tender with a new engine. I will have the "first start" in a week or two. I thought that it will be good for the engine to idle for a few hours and after that -- to cruise off-boost for a few hours.

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Its well known never to be tender with a new motor.

Lots of load in bursts; different amounts of load and at different rpm's. I drove mine along the seafront with lots of round abouts so lots of slowing down with hard acceleration. I disconnected my turbo's actuator so I could give it some up to 4000rpm without it instantly pushing 11-12psi.

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Ive found a good grade mineral or semi-synth oil is best as you still need the oil to give protection as proper engine run-in requires that you load the engine up ie up hil high gear low revs which loads up the bearings

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