Boost Raising

[WhitePrincess]

Hey guys,

I'm sure a lot of people have seen/heard of this before... Boost problems after a FMIC install... Of course that bloody thing doesn't have the nipple on the piping kit, so where do I connect the boost controller?

I have attached the pic of my engine bay for your reference. What seems to happen is boost rising... It would stop at 8psi as I have set it to, but then in 2nd and 3rd under a fair demand (4000-6000rpm) the boost can raise by itself to like 12psi, and if not careful I guess can raise even more (wasn't gain to try).

Can someone pls help me... Do I absolutely have to weld a nipple on the intercooler piping or can I just use some other hose???

As always, I DO thank you very much for any help you can give me

[lach 32]

hey, installed a front mount on my mates r33 gts-t a few months ago. he had the same problem with the boost rising. so we had to put the niple in so he could put a bleed valve in, but u dont have to weld it, all we did was go down to a auto parts store (repco) and picked up a brass nipple that was the right size for the hose, then drilled a hole that was smaller then the thread of the nipple, and because the brass was a harder metal it simply self taped itself into the hole, we also used plumbers tape at the same time to create a better seal. As for the plumbing of the bleed valve hoses i can't remeber exactly what we did, but i rembered that we replaced the stock hoses with some silicone tube because the stock stuff has restictors in them. i'll check with him and get back to you.

[RBwhatever]

Disconnect what you have there and tee into the hose that connects your bov to the plenum. I'm pretty sure that hose you've tee'd into goes to the carbon canister.

I've connected mine to the BOV vacuum hose and it works fine. Same boost controller too.

Edited June 12, 2007 by KeyMakeR33

[WhitePrincess]

cool, thanks for that guys!

[Pauly33GTS-t]

I heard tho putting a nipple in like that can create turbulence in the FMIC piping. better to weld one on there, even though it is harder to weld on to the aluminum ones. I'm sure an exhaust place will do it for 10 dollahs.

[Ultimategtr]

hey man. i just installed a HDi fmic on my r33.. didnt come with a nipple.. i jst drilled a hole and screwed the nipple in and used silicon to seal the sides.. (there was no leak anyway)

that works sweet for me.. i got the factory solenoid to a switch.. ie hi/lo boost..

[mad082]

i had boost spiking after my fmic install. i put the nipple in the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. got rid of it completely.

[Pauly33GTS-t]

So it dont matter where you put that nipple...

[xRHETTx]

A little bit of turbulence from the nipple is nothing compared to the turbulence the air undergoes when it passes through the cooler core!

And anyway the higher the turbulence the better the heat transfer in the cooler.

[Pauly33GTS-t]

Idid not mean turbulence in the core, I meant turbulence close to the throttle body... is it safe to put the nipple on the bottom intercooler piping is what i am asking now in particular?

[sinistaGTR]

yes you can put it anywhere and you dont have to get your vac from there can be from the plenum etc etc

[WhitePrincess]

yes you can put it anywhere and you dont have to get your vac from there can be from the plenum etc etc

that's what i thought, correct me if i'm wrong, but i do have it connected to the intake plenum now, don't i?

[mad082]

i would have it running from a boost only source (before the throttle body). i would also run it from before the intercooler so that you don't have as much spiking on cold nights. if you run it from after the cooler on a cold night the pressure before the cooler may be a few psi higher that what you think it is, which means more chance of the turbo letting go (if it is stock). i would also recommend running the boost gauge from the same spot. you won't see vacuum but you will know exactly what pressure the turbo is running at. if you have it from the plenum you don't really know what pressure the turbo is running at. you only know how much is getting to the motor. the intercooler may be adding 1 or 2 psi restriction.

[WhitePrincess]

just thought i'd update my own topic so if people search they'd get the full story:

installed the 'nipple' in my intercooler piping and it keeps doing the same thing... i think i'm gonna blame the boost controller for it... unless there is someone out there that can give me an answer to this small but important problem.

[R33silverS2]

just thought i'd update my own topic so if people search they'd get the full story:

installed the 'nipple' in my intercooler piping and it keeps doing the same thing... i think i'm gonna blame the boost controller for it... unless there is someone out there that can give me an answer to this small but important problem.

I had the same issue when i put my fmic on. As the hybrid kit didn't have a nipple the guy at the workshop tee'd it into the bov vac hose and said it was all good which it wasn't! boost was ramping up to 1 bar, got a nipple welded onto the cooler pipe in the same position as the stock one and it seemed to fix the prob. Boost went down to about 9 psi i think - had full turboback exhaust put on as well. But the boost would always seem to creep up in the high revs evenb with the standard solenoid disconnected and blocked off. Tee-ing it into the bov hose also made the bov not function properly -DON'T DO IT! not you obviously as you have put a nipple on.

Perhaps the vac line running from the cooler pipe to the wastgate has a split or fine crack in it causing the high boost. or the standard solenoid could be faulty - perhaps get rid of the standard solenoid if not already.

[WhitePrincess]

hey guys, just an update on the issue i'm STILL having... well, as per my last reply i was blaming the boost controller, but i take it back as i have spent a few bucks and bought an ebc Apexi AVC-R, nice unit, but very shortly after putting it in i found out that it did not fix my problem.

had a chat to a guy in performance shop and he suggested that i could have a problem with exhaust that i also installed right after the intercooler... the threory he had was that the acuator was not opening up the bypass 'channel' for the excess exhaust fumes..

so i took the cover off the turbo and surely enough found out that a bracket that was installed to hold the turbo cover was blocking the acuator of doing its thing (on the photo attached, the bracket that was installed is that transparent block)... i took the bracket off and the bypass channel was still struggling to open, there was no choice but to take the dump pipe off and see. once the dump pipe was off i found out that the welding was not 100%. i used a file to smooth it up, took a while, but in the end once fitted back on the car, the acuator was able to open up the bypass thingny, BUT when i went for a drive the car was still overboosting (sorry forgot to mention, apexi boost solenoid was set to off, which in theory would give me only 5psi as this is what r33 acuators are set for).

so, now i think it might be the acuator is now stuffed by me having the bracket thing on for a few months...

my next step is to get a hold of an acuator and swap and see if that fails, might put the old dump pipe on to see if it help at all...

ps. if anyone has an acuator of an r33 s2 let me know

Edited September 25, 2007 by WhitePrincess

[Simmo1985]

I've pretty much got the same problem as you and we've got very similar setups. I'm using the turbotech boost controller still. Is that a Just Jap split dump? Looks like mine. I did most of my mods around the same time, FMIC, JJR split dump and turbotech b/c.

I fixed my problem for a little while. I had to bypass the charcoal canister (just disconnect the hose that runs from it up to the T piece). Then connect the line running to the inlet manifold in the boost controller directly. (my FMIC did not have a nipple). After doing that the car held boost perfectly, fixed the TT controller to 10psi and it held it like an absolute champion all the way to redline. Unfortunately now (a week later), for some reason my boost is dropping off in the higher revs, suspect it's a leak problem but can't for the life of my figure out where. Any idea what else could cause that? Wastegate not opening or becoming stuck open or something?

I want to get it all sorted out in the next week or so, don't like running the car without the charcoal canister hooked up, don't wanna get defected. Might have to go for a trip to the mechanics.

[WhitePrincess]

yep, JJR turbo back exhaust well spotted! good luck mate, let me know how it goes at the mechanics

[Haines]

There is two of us up here in the Ville having this problem

Im running an Internal gated 3076r

and mymate running a HKS GTRS

same thing wastegate flap is hitting and half blocking the secondary outlet causing boost spiking

ive been told these pipe are more designed for the standard / highflow setups

so this weekend im ripping mine off and making a larger secondary pipe from the turbo to see if I can get the flap to open up inside the pipe

[Munkyb0y]

its possibly the split dump causing the problem. ive already heard of a few others having this issue. there can be turbulence and backpressure in the wastegate pipe, coz its so narrow.

i went with a bellmouth. no problems.