R32: How Long Before The Engine Is Hot

[kristafa]

Recently bought a consult interface which shows me what the sensors are doing (thanks newKleer). The main purpose of buying it was to find out why i'm running so rich (<10:1) - faulty sensors?!?

After 5 mins idle - 40*C

After 15 mins idle - 71*C

After 20 mins idle then quick drive - 73*C

seems like it takes forever to heat up, and i dont know if it will even reach the 80*C mark - my question is anybody think that its the temp sensor, or does it normally take quite a while to get to the 80*C running temp?

i know that, if engine temp < 80*C then it will use the 'cold engine' map which are rich as hell, could this exlain why i'm running rich all the time?

I can provide screen dumps of the gauge panel from the consult software ECUTalk.

any help would be GRREEEEEEEAT

[Haysey]

sounds normal to me, remember it will take a while to heat up just idiling....

on a cold night crusing around ill be on 70deg, thrashing ill be like 78-79 and on the track ive seen it hit like 91... i guess the radiator dosent get alot of flow when your drifting

maybe you need a retune? what else is done to the engine?

[kristafa]

maybe you need a retune? what else is done to the engine?

Got front mount, aftermarket fuel pump (walbro), 3" turbs back exhaust, apexi pod, stock boost and everything else. and its in a bmw but that shouldn't have much bearing on the matter.

i know these run rich and all, but i got like 110rwkw on the dyno and the guy there said his machine couldn't read below 10:1 AFRs, and i was flat 10:1 across the board so he suggested i may be running alot richer than even 10:1. smoke bellowing out the back under booooost.

[mad082]

if the interface was reading those temps then the sensors are probably fine. it may be that the thermostat needs replacing. but it normally does take the car longer to heat up when it is idling than when driving.

as for running rich, you may have a few things going on. you may have a vacuum leak which is causing it to run richer, or your afm may be dirty and not registering the correct amount of air. have you done a fault code check to make sure there sn't an error causing it to run rich?

[kristafa]

as for running rich, you may have a few things going on. you may have a vacuum leak which is causing it to run richer, or your afm may be dirty and not registering the correct amount of air. have you done a fault code check to make sure there sn't an error causing it to run rich?

i have 2 AFM's here and neither fix the problem, i've checked vacuum leaks everywhere. 55 all clear fault code. i've been thru 2 oxy sensors coz they keep going black so i'm not gonna buy another one until i fix the problem (which is obviously occuring accel/under boost so the oxy sensor isn't used at that time).

is it possible that it just needs to be tuned? i thought the ecu would be good for putting out at least 11.5:1 without tuning it..

would the timing have something to do with richness, maybe i need to get a mecho to look at the timing..?

[Haysey]

Speak to CEF11E about a retune, tell him HAYSEY sent you, he will tune your car.... youll make ALOT more power, use alot less fuel and it will run better...

you should be putting out alot more power than that... but sounds like you also have another problem not just the tune

[mad082]

no, the timing shouldn't alter anything. the only thing i could think of is either the injectors have been upgraded (or are dirty and leaking), or the fuel pressure reg has been changed (or it is stuffed).

[1400r]

check the base timing anyway it will not affect your afr's but have 10 degrees base timing would make u have a crap power fig

[kristafa]

cool well i sent cef11e a PM

thanks guys for ur help anyways.

[ZENNON]

Recently bought a consult interface which shows me what the sensors are doing (thanks newKleer)

how much was that and where did you get it from? im interested to find out exact temps too while im on the track...

[kristafa]

how much was that and where did you get it from? im interested to find out exact temps too while im on the track...

hey i got my cable from a group buy thread which is still running. paid 60 for it from newKleer. they are handy, plug into your laptop and get realtime values.

[sicrb25]

My 25 takes 15 mins to completely warm up.

Edited June 13, 2007 by sicrb25

[Haysey]

how much was that and where did you get it from? im interested to find out exact temps too while im on the track...

ive got a consult interface on my dash

best $200 ive spent, soooooo handy!

[Slim Mat]

My R32 GT-R doesn't take very long to heat up at all. About 5 mins and the needle is on cold(idling), then drive 500m and the gauge reads middle and stays there. I was going to start a thread myself, wondering whether that was a bit fast.

I don't think that you coolant temp is much to be worried about, sounds normal. I think you could be right though, about the cold running map. My GT-R has no power when it's cold, I suspect cold map. As soon as the gauge hits middle it changes and I can feel it surge ahead, doesn't need anywhere near as mush throttle just to move.

The ECU tune is probably the best way to go, get the mech to see if he can check cold running settings, see if there is a value at which the maps change. I don't think it should stay on cold all the time, even at 70ish C.

[DjeMz]

How hot is to hot?

Like at how many degrees Celsius should u be panicking?

[sicrb25]

mine gets up to 90 - 91 degrees, 100+ turn that b!tch off i rekon

[NewKleer]

open up ur radiator cap after you just start car when cold, and see if u can see the water moving across radiator. if so, ur thermostat isnt closing properly, making it take longer to warm up etc.

however if the themostat closes fully, but opens too much/too quickly, you would have the same issue (and if it does that, its harder to tell)

the group buy is still running, but full. blazt.biz for 100-105AU delivered will get u the cable u hook up to ur pc (functionally the same as group buy one). or a few months time ill have the next version of consult lcd displays (which also have integrated consult interface) for only 100 or so more than that (around 200-230 mark).

since your cooling system is pressurised and should be using some "coolant" (rather than plain water), it wont boil till up past 100 (maybe 110 or so?). 95C is normal temp for my SR20DET (time which the fans turn on). if it hit 105 id be finding a place to cool her down, mainly cause id know something isnt working right if its getting that high (unless ive been thrashing it a lot with no airflow).

ive got a consult interface on my dash

best $200 ive spent, soooooo handy!

youve got more than just a cable sitting on your dash

[HR31_RB20DET]

My R32 GT-R doesn't take very long to heat up at all. About 5 mins and the needle is on cold(idling), then drive 500m and the gauge reads middle and stays there. I was going to start a thread myself, wondering whether that was a bit fast.

I don't think that you coolant temp is much to be worried about, sounds normal. I think you could be right though, about the cold running map. My GT-R has no power when it's cold, I suspect cold map. As soon as the gauge hits middle it changes and I can feel it surge ahead, doesn't need anywhere near as mush throttle just to move.

The ECU tune is probably the best way to go, get the mech to see if he can check cold running settings, see if there is a value at which the maps change. I don't think it should stay on cold all the time, even at 70ish C.

Thats about right, mine takes a few minutes to get to 40C while to once the car reaches around 50C it quickly climbs up to 76C. I usually let mine idle for a minute or 2 then drive sedately for 5 minutes and it's at 76C.

[ferni]

15minutes of idling a car? f**k don't you get bored? Just baby it until it's warm and she'll be fine. Warms up quicker to that way.

[wrxhoon]

Bring it here I'll warm it up for you in less than 5 minutes. Don't forget iddling it for long time will not do it any favours, you will end up with glazed bores.