Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

shouldn't my hosing work like this, this way it stops the oil from passing through the turbo??

Dude.. What the fuck?

Perhaps doing a search would let you understand how a catchcan works, and the point of it. Knowing why youre putting an aftermarket one there would probably help make you sound less stupid.

PS: Give Liz's sock back.

Arkhaeon, no need to be rude. Don't be so juvenile as to resort to calling some one stupid when they are just asking for help.

NSA11N, restricting Oil form your turbo would be bad. Just do a search on the forums for catchcans, and you should find enough info.

Well, was I wrong? I do believe calling me juvenile would be placed in the same category as calling someone stupid. I fail to see how calling a spade a spade is juvenile. If anything, I am acting as a normal twenty-something should act.

A member with 133 posts should know already how the search function works, and thus utilise said function before posting.

Pauls' initial question showed he doesnt use the search function (for a silly, commonly discussed topic), and that gets up my goat enough in itself, but then proceeding to dispute an MS paint drawing of a catchcan location, based on the turbo lines? That doesnt exactly show the greatest deal of subject knowledge.

If you want me to conform, and "Be an individual.. just like everyone else", then fine; heres' my revised post:

Hey d00d, sik engine bay! I think you need a stainless catchcan to match all those other aftermarket goodies! Keep up the good work :)

man! why can't we all just help each other? the guy asked a question! at least let him know nicely to use the search button! there is no need to be so rude! :)

and nsa11n, mines near the pod filter.. it used to be near the fuse box.. so it really depends on where you have foinf space in your engine bay! lol! :( as for which way the cables go, i have also seen many variations of this setup! unfortunately i don't know the reasons for it! lol!

If you haven't already purchsed it, and you expect to do a lot of track time, you might consider an oil seperator. It serves the same function as a catch can but also seperate the oil and feeds it back to the engine. It will cost more (prob $400 all in) but provides a "closed loop" system.

Dude.. What the fuck?

Perhaps doing a search would let you understand how a catchcan works, and the point of it. Knowing why youre putting an aftermarket one there would probably help make you sound less stupid.

PS: Give Liz's sock back.

Dude.. You're a jerk?

Perhaps doing the right thing and helping me put it in would have been a nicer approach.

And as for sounding stupid, i'm sure that you've asked many a question like this before, so play nice and do the right thing!

Paul,

Have a look at mine on sunday at S n S or saturday if you are going to JET's workshop

Mine does havethe oil/air seperator but its actually illegal to have it venting to atmosphere so Ive got a return line.

I got mine through performance wise

Actually, I read the "READ THIS BEFORE POSTING" topics, which tell you to do a search.

I could help you put it in, but you would probably just aggrevate me more in person.

Have you tried searching for ideas yet? www.google.com.au will help if you can't find any decent information on sau. I know catchcans have been covered on www.nissansilvia.com, which google should link you to.

It doesn't matter how wrong he might be or if he should have searched or if he doeesn't know something you do, there is no need for rudeness. Just cos someone doesn't know something doesn't make them stupid.

Check here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=catch+can

Here is were I put my catch can, near the pod filter. I still have to get braided lines

I is basically beside the aircon condensor or what ever it is called mounted on a bracket that I made.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...i&img=61404

Edited by 33_skyline
Well, was I wrong? I do believe calling me juvenile would be placed in the same category as calling someone stupid. I fail to see how calling a spade a spade is juvenile. If anything, I am acting as a normal twenty-something should act.

A member with 133 posts should know already how the search function works, and thus utilise said function before posting.

Pauls' initial question showed he doesnt use the search function (for a silly, commonly discussed topic), and that gets up my goat enough in itself, but then proceeding to dispute an MS paint drawing of a catchcan location, based on the turbo lines? That doesnt exactly show the greatest deal of subject knowledge.

If you want me to conform, and "Be an individual.. just like everyone else", then fine; heres' my revised post:

This guy is the breathing definition of a f**khead.

Dont worry about him. Your questions are welcome. I would also suggest looking around the forums for other catch can threads, theres a few.

Heres my custom catch can/washer bottle setup made by R.I.P.S (www.ripsltd.co.nz) in N.Z, it completly replaces the stock washer bottle, in my opinion it is one of the cleanest looking setups avaliable, i love mine, mite even send it back to rips to get it polished for that extra bling :D, my setup is just straight from the cam covers to the catch can using -10 pushlock hose for the breather lines, 2 x -10 female fittings, 2 x -10 male weld on fittings on the catch can, a custom made alloy bung for the stock pcv valve and thats pretty much it.

Heres some pics, sorry that there not the best.

JaysR33056.jpg

JaysR33057.jpg

JaysR33058.jpg

JaysR33059.jpg

100_1837.jpg

I can get some better pics if anyone wants them.

Edited by nizmo_freek
Heres my custom catch can/washer bottle setup made by R.I.P.S (www.ripsltd.co.nz) in N.Z, it completly replaces the stock washer bottle, in my opinion it is one of the cleanest looking setups avaliable, i love mine, mite even send it back to rips to get it polished for that extra bling :) , my setup is just straight from the cam covers to the catch can using -10 pushlock hose for the breather lines, 2 x -10 female fittings, 2 x -10 male weld on fittings on the catch can, a custom made alloy bung for the stock pcv valve and thats pretty much it.

Heres some pics, sorry that there not the best.

JaysR33056.jpg

JaysR33057.jpg

JaysR33058.jpg

JaysR33059.jpg

100_1837.jpg

I can get some better pics if anyone wants them.

That looks tops mate!

Awesome

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...