Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I currently have a RB25DET, PowerFC, GTR FMIC, High flow cat, greddy plenum with Q45 TB, 13psi on standard turbz and big exhaust. Everything else is pretty much stock.

Currently im at 217kw, what will i need for 350??

Im thinking injectors, bigger turbo... what else?

Its in a S13 so im not sure how much room there would be for a bigass turbo and it has a RB20 gearbox (twin plate clutch), i hear these are only good for around 270kw before they self destruct.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172633-required-mods-for-350rwkw/
Share on other sites

RB25 box - $1500

Rebuild, head work etc - $6000-7000

Turbo - $1700

Manifold - $1000

Ext Gate - $700

Injectors - $800

AFM - $300

Plus all the labour to fit it all, new hoses, clamps, gaskets, dump pipes, coils etc - $3000

Thats 16k or there abouts.

Then there is the diff, suspension, brakes etc. So add on around another 8k there.

Oh and a clutch, 1200.

And no doubt other things i have missed aswell.

Simply put, power is not cheap. The more you want the more its going to cost.

Reliably and getting it to the ground so you can actually drive the car, your looking at around 25k to do it properly.

As you basically have a stock car, you've gotta change everything

Nice, might lower my power goal slightly then :)

A well tuned responsive car at 290kw at the wheels is a better drive

than a car that pushes 350kw does not get any traction on lift and goes on like a pig.

It is about the package...not the power....especially if the tuner gets his results at 1.5bar+ and 8000rpm

using nitro.....lol...a bit over the top...but you all know what I mean

I would suggest to you...a new turbo....a set of cams...and a good tune for street work......

I already knew power costs money...

But im sure your over Exaggerating :)

Oh also have an upgraded fuel pump, im thinking of spending around 3 - 4k on it to get some decent numbers. Was thinking a hi flow and injectors.

Edited by sicrb25

Im really not exaggerating, if anything im actually being conservative in some of the estimates.

If you only have 4k, then all you can do is a hi-flow and injectors and thats about it.

tuning will eat up the rest and you'll have around $500 or so change to spend on fuel and whatever :)

I killed mine with 270rwkw with my RB25.

It lasted about 4 months and was in good condition prior. I'd given it a good workout @ the drags on 3 separate occasions.

Roy with the RB20 has made 250rwkw and circuit raced his heaps.

I would say the added torque/traction i had with my setup killed it faster and thats why Roy's car/box is still going.

Plus circuit/drag is different aswell

So... with a 25, the hi-flow will be pushing the boxes limits if you intend to do any type of drag racing.

Circuit you might find its ok

A well tuned responsive car at 290kw at the wheels is a better drive

than a car that pushes 350kw does not get any traction on lift and goes on like a pig.

It is about the package...not the power....especially if the tuner gets his results at 1.5bar+ and 8000rpm

using nitro.....lol...a bit over the top...but you all know what I mean

I would suggest to you...a new turbo....a set of cams...and a good tune for street work......

yeah i learnt that with my FD rx7.... did a crazy build up 350-odd kw then realised i liked the 300 far better.

for me the ultimate setup on a rb25 is evrything you already got plus one thing.... a TD06SH-25g kit. This kit has proved on std internals to run mid 10's on slicks (CREATD MSA manual r33) and mid 11's on street radials (andrew manual r33 from autobarn frankston... now wearing a T88 and transbrake tho :) ).

The boxes limits or the engines limits, if its the boxes i dunno where the hell you got that from since theres alot of people running alot more power through it and still going strong, the engine on the other hand is a gamble at most.

Cheers.

Plus little bit of an equation anything under 300 rwkws or just on is close to max limitations of a good reliable streeter any more well as stated you budget doubles in price just alone for handling tyres and fuel

Cheers

A

yeah i learnt that with my FD rx7.... did a crazy build up 350-odd kw then realised i liked the 300 far better.

for me the ultimate setup on a rb25 is evrything you already got plus one thing.... a TD06SH-25g kit. This kit has proved on std internals to run mid 10's on slicks (CREATD MSA manual r33) and mid 11's on street radials (andrew manual r33 from autobarn frankston... now wearing a T88 and transbrake tho :) ).

Something a little like this???

R32 Gtst:

Engine: Rb25det conversion The internals are far from stock and top secret, Flowed head/port polish, HKS 275 camshafts, HKS head gasket, Trust Stainless top mount manifold, Trust 50mm waste-gate, Trust front mount intercooler, Trust Oil cooler and relocation filter kit, GReddy Type-R BOV plumbed backed, Nismo 820cc injectors, HKS F-con Pro V.... im sure ive missed a few bits n pieces

Suspension And Running Gear: Rebuilt Rb25det gearbox, brand new twin plate OS clutch, Nismo 2way mechanical diff, Tein adjustable coilovers, Tein Adjustable Castor Rods, Tein Tie Rod Ends, 17inch Genuine 3 piece Nismo rims.

R32015.jpg

Pictures from a year ago, its now got a full gtr intake setup including ITB's, 490rwhp @ 1.2bar, we actually dont know what the turbo is, its one of three items, Trust Td06-25g, old school trust td07s or a t67-25g, whatever it is, it does the job :(

Due for a retune in about 3 - 4 months time, its in at the shop atm having engine and box pulled for more work and full paintjob. Ohhh and 11.4 on crappy streets and 10.8 on crappy slicks, also my first time driving a car with some decent power at the drags, im more into drift... so you hit the nail on the head with your proported claims in the previous post imo.

Edited by `nigno

not to stray off topic but is that josh's (NismoBoy) old r32 he had?

About the gearboxs lasting. I would be more inclined to think that circuit racing would put more stress, and temperature through a box then drag racing would, as its over an exteneded time. In a 20min race you do more high rpm gearchanges, more throttle application(on/off) and temps skyrocket cause your doing that for so long. Only thing you dont get is the initial force on everything from the launch as there isnt as much rubber layed down on the start/finish line like found at a dragstrip. 370rwkws killed our rb25gbox at the track after a 1.5 years of racing, 4th gear. Application will determine most things. I would stick to a conserative power if your keeping the rb20box.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
×
×
  • Create New...