Painting

[cruzin33]

Im bout to roll my r33 into a paint shop after a long time of strees taking the interiour and motor out to save money. Iv been thinking of doing a little bit more of prep work myself as in taking it back to bare metal and maybe spray the cabin and inside the boot with 2pac primer. If i choose to bare metal the body how long can i leave it bare for with out a base primer as im not that confident with the gun. I would be getting some mates and getting the body back to metal the day before she rolls in to the paint shop will this be ok?

Cheers

Dave

[Sambo33]

bare metal should be etch-primed as soon as the paint is stripped. i think u can leave it for awhile, but best to hit it with primer straight away.

[Trav33]

Is there a need to go back to bare metal? I thought if original paintwork was solid, its easier and just as good to sand and paint on top?

[Craved]

scuff top layer with 400 wet dry or scotch brite to remove shine off clear coat and also any wax's

fix dents then prime , block , prime , block til its straight. then paint

if you have waves etc in the panels, use a higher grit like 280 to get more straight then prime over the top.

no need to go back to metal unless fixing a major dent.

etch primer isnt usually much of a sealer either, so if it gets wet it can still rust.

[Sambo33]

etch is non-porous, water shouldnt be able to soak in like a normal primer.

[Aif]

you shouldnt need to be that good with a spray gun for priming as you'll be sanding alot of it off tehn spraying again, and sanding, and spraying then filling little pit holes, then sanding etc till your undercoat looks like glass, also i wouldnt sand right back to metal unless your treating rust or a big dent as Craved stated, i found that sanding back to metal made the metal warp when i sprayed my last cars roof, and if u have dip's on your roof you see it from miles away when finished.

good luck

Aif

[Mr Eps]

can i just say this is a bad idea... a really really bad idea not a fun path to go down...

most panel n paint shops don't go down to bare metal cos there's not that much point, as far as they can see... they may not want you to go down that far cos it will end up making their job a lot harder

once you go down to bare metal any dings n dents will be visible and the paint shop can remove them easilly... on their own time.

so theres some reasons NOT to do this in the quality of workmanship sense.. understand this... good panel n painters are a virtue... they know what they're doing, some things are best left to the professionals to get a better job, and stripping the paint and priming it yourself may be causing them more headaches than favours

i'm assuming you want to strip the paint to save money so your panel shop doesn't have to do this...

think of it like this, a quick analogy for you... when you go to mcdonals... and you get a cheeseburger, but you don't want pickles or onions, or mustard, you're getting a less quality burger with less ingredients... but do you pay less for the burger in the end? NO. you still pay the same price, when you go to KFC and you get a zinger burger and don't want lettuce, is the burger then cheaper cos of no lettuce? NO

you STILL pay $2.20 for the cheeseburger, and you STILL pay $3.85 for the zinger... but what do you have? a crappy cheeseburger that only a sick gangly little child would like, and a zinger burger with no crisp shredded fresh iceberg lettuce.

same as this, the quality of job you would be getting might not be as high, and you will still get charged the similiar amount of a regular respray, so i think ti would be a good idea to just bite the bullet and deal with the regular costing, don't take these kinda of matters into your own hands, panel n paint shops do this kind of thing everyday so they know what they're doing, and no offense... but you do not know what you're doing.

it would be a shame for you to see what you consider a sub par job after removing the engine and the interior bits and stuff...

anybody else agree with me? or does everyone wanna be "the man"?

[Sambo33]

hey i agree. im a spray painter by trade, its what i do everyday!

i look back to the work i did before i got into the trade, and it was messy and took way more time than it should have, and to top it off the result was substandard.

i have given the advice you have just given to many people, and... they dont listen.

so basically i say do it the way u want, im not going to argue.

[Craved]

etch is non-porous, water shouldnt be able to soak in like a normal primer.

thats handy to know, cheers.

i can definatley see the opinions above regarding what is a better way to have this done. there are however people who would like to learn a little by doing it themselves, i am one of these people. having done all the prep work on my cars respray it does take longer than a pro shop to get to a stage ready for paint and there is always going to be something you wish you spent more time on.

Unless you are being quoted a few hundred dollars less to do this work yourself, the time and effort is not worth the extra it would cost you, other than for education purposes.

[Mr Eps]

craved i see your point but the issue i was trying to raise but sort of *didn't* is that this could prove to be more costly than simply handing it over, they may not HAVE to take it back to bare metal, they may just have to spray over roughed up paint because they see the paint will stick!

this will mean less primer and undercoating and will save more money!

i am just stating that point more, that it may cost more in the end to actually sand it back yourself, cos you're basically giving yourself i hard rogering by causing the paint shop more work

be careful listening to car forum know-it-alls (that isn't directed at any of you guys btw) but be weary of taking a guy on a car forums word over a professional, that's not to do with ALL cases, but some cases common sense should tell you what is in your best interests...

[Craved]

craved i see your point but the issue i was trying to raise but sort of *didn't* is that this could prove to be more costly than simply handing it over, they may not HAVE to take it back to bare metal, they may just have to spray over roughed up paint because they see the paint will stick!

this will mean less primer and undercoating and will save more money!

i am just stating that point more, that it may cost more in the end to actually sand it back yourself, cos you're basically giving yourself i hard rogering by causing the paint shop more work

be careful listening to car forum know-it-alls (that isn't directed at any of you guys btw) but be weary of taking a guy on a car forums word over a professional, that's not to do with ALL cases, but some cases common sense should tell you what is in your best interests...

makes sense to me, no need for a bare metal rspray other than beiong able to say its a "bare metal" respray .. most people wont know the difference these days anyway.

[Trav33]

When i was getting quotes to have my VN Calais resprayed, the panel beater said if i sanded and prep'd it, he wouldnt paint it - he does his own prep to guarantee his work. I dont think this was so he could get extra money, cause his prices were awesome anyway.