Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wanted the boost at first hands down but then i seen it on a commodore in a small pick and thought it didn't look good.

I am think the shift. This is going on a black series 2 r33 gtst. Thanks

post-35160-1181733973.jpg

post-35160-1181734004_thumb.jpg

Edited by Pattygtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172657-which-rims-should-i-get/
Share on other sites

couldnt understand what you were trying to say.. you wanted the boost first? uh?

for a black 33:

1) cr kais in bronze or white.

2) R34 gtr rims

3) gtcs face 2 in silver or gold

4) Black ssrs with chrome outer edge

5) Black LMGt4s

6) White Te37s

7) deep dished vs kfs..

must i go on?

couldnt understand what you were trying to say.. you wanted the boost first? uh?

for a black 33:

1) cr kais in bronze or white.

2) R34 gtr rims

3) gtcs face 2 in silver or gold

4) Black ssrs with chrome outer edge

5) Black LMGt4s

6) White Te37s

7) deep dished vs kfs..

must i go on?

I cant agree more :)

dude go the 16 inch ROH adrenalins you can't go wrong they're SO good!!

nobody in the world has ever made such a good well engineered rim as the ROH adrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaahahahahhahahaha

sorry i can't keep a straight face...

..seriously though, if you like the ROH's, get 'em we're not here to provide advice as to what you want, but i will say this,if you get those rims, the next week afterwards you will understand the quality of a good wheel, and you will cometo realise that the ROH's aren't what you were looking for afterall, and you would like to sell them for some better engineered, better designed, better fitting japanese wheels... they don't cost that much more than the australian ones, which aren't actually australian, they are chinese...

....you're not a chinese person... ARE YOU!?

haha, but seriously you will buy them and regret it, and then when it comes time to sell, you won't be able to sell them to ANYBODY ever and you will be stuck with the dreadded curse that is crappy rims sitting in your garage that nobody wants...

Thanks for your replys guys. But i wanted to know which you prefer put of the two shown. I only want chrome deep dish five spoke rims, nothing else. I dont really like japanese rims more the aussie ones cheers. And i am looking for 19"

Alright how bout you look at these...

Google them I cant do all the work for you

Starcorp - Impul (on tempe tyres website come in chrome and deepppp dish)

Koya - Race Tek (Hard to get in sydney duno wtf u are but seriously hot rims)

Koya - Inox (not as sexi as the above but come in 3rd for aussie rims)

I understand not paying $4000 for jap spec rims just not the weight is conciderably different vrs jap forged shit .. atleast 4 to 5 kg .. really makes back off uneasy when slowing for a light .. im sure its just a thing you have to get used to ..

9.5 max unless you want to mod for the rears 19's are big but fill the guards very nice .. hope you dont want to do any track work tho

8.5 fronts id even shoot for 8's to drop some more weight .. the steering will be very noticable loss and you have to throw it around some corners..

My advice is on what ive done .. so believe it!

More advice please buy good tyres.. ATM im riding on Nankang and I have falken all round stick to a decent brand and dont go for nankang .. they are very hard which means they will last awhile .. but they dont grip for shit ..

I was using very very illegally low treaded falkens .. and they stuck better than this shit .. at least get some good gear on the rears please!!!!

Hope it helps PM if you need any more help

Oh and on the note .. My mate has the second one on his soarer.. on a skyline they look like shit .. really really shit ..

Edited by DECIM8
Alright how bout you look at these...

Google them I cant do all the work for you

Starcorp - Impul (on tempe tyres website come in chrome and deepppp dish)

Koya - Race Tek (Hard to get in sydney duno wtf u are but seriously hot rims)

Koya - Inox (not as sexi as the above but come in 3rd for aussie rims)

I understand not paying $4000 for jap spec rims just not the weight is conciderably different vrs jap forged shit .. atleast 4 to 5 kg .. really makes back off uneasy when slowing for a light .. im sure its just a thing you have to get used to ..

9.5 max unless you want to mod for the rears 19's are big but fill the guards very nice .. hope you dont want to do any track work tho

8.5 fronts id even shoot for 8's to drop some more weight .. the steering will be very noticable loss and you have to throw it around some corners..

My advice is on what ive done .. so believe it!

More advice please buy good tyres.. ATM im riding on Nankang and I have falken all round stick to a decent brand and dont go for nankang .. they are very hard which means they will last awhile .. but they dont grip for shit ..

I was using very very illegally low treaded falkens .. and they stuck better than this shit .. at least get some good gear on the rears please!!!!

Hope it helps PM if you need any more help

Oh and on the note .. My mate has the second one on his soarer.. on a skyline they look like shit .. really really shit ..

Do you have a picture of the soarer with them on. I checked out those on tempe tyres and don't like them. But those Koya race tek chrome man there sweet better than the two i had posted. A fair bit more to be pay but the wheels make the car in my opinion. Cheers mate

Ill grab some for ya mate.. But trust me give them a miss .. they suk .. they looks really shockers on my r34 (black) and black is meant to look great with chrome..

Yes the race tek are seriously nice wheels and even better in person .. I wanted black but they are sold out and bonus they come in staggered sets 8" front 9" rears and will fit perfect .. you may need a 3mm spacer to clear your front brakes but the 33s are as big as the 34 brakes so u should right..

Trust me ring round for the race teks and the impuls (they look better in shadow chrome - ive got them) ditch those other rims ur looking at.. skylines just dont go with it

dsgf.jpg

Edited by DECIM8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...