Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anyone else had there car tuned on ve cos ive been in cars with lag but this feels different it could be set up.in the top end you see the torque drop of it was explained to me that its cos of the cams need to be bigger tuning in volumetric efficiency  calculates the amount of air that can flow throw the engine

Tuning in 'VE' is just a way of making it easier for the the tuner to make changes and see what is going on, so long as it is a competent tuner the end result should be the same - if any tune isn't matched to the VE patterns of the engine then the mixtures will be all over the show. So really all tuning is VE tuning, it's just sometimes more obvious than others depending on the software ;-)

  • Replies 533
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Tuning in 'VE' is just a way of making it easier for the the tuner to make changes and see what is going on, so long as it is a competent tuner the end result should be the same - if any tune isn't matched to the VE patterns of the engine then the mixtures will be all over the show. So really all tuning is VE tuning, it's just sometimes more obvious than others depending on the software ;-)

would that be a fuel AFR like bondi beach as i saw mine starts high waves up and down and at the end it at around 11.6 instead of a straight line what im use to.

If the efficiency of the engine drops off your VE numbers will tend to flatten out and sometimes run backwards.

That torque curve says it all. Add some more boost if you have a decent controller with rpm correction at the point where the torque curve falls over (150km/h). Power will keep climbing and torque curve will stay flatter.

do you think that he is pulling my leg about the cams

Edited by WARLORD
  • 2 months later...

would that be a fuel AFR like bondi beach as i saw mine starts high waves up and down and at the end it at around 11.6 instead of a straight line what im use to.

I'd be interested to see that curve - sounds a bit odd.

i have finely post a video up not the best but it gives an idea.

Looks like it goes well, hard to tell from clips but it seems on the laggy side to me though - could easily be wrong. Usually easier to tell when you can see rpm/boost. Enjoying it?

unfortunately i did not get a print out of the a/f ratio but it was as i said.lots of things are wrong,when it gets seen to ill post the report of things that are wrong.its not really enjoyable knowing it could be better after spending $1460

for eg

flats spots in the rev range

one value set up for anti lag instead of a map set at 23psi which is way to hi

boost setting set up wrong so that the car was spiking at 29psi every time

knock threshold not set up

if car stalls its hard to start

fouling plugs

+++++

so once i gets fixed im sure it will not be as laggy,im also getting a haltech wideband for the Ecu.

Edited by WARLORD

Clearly they can't tune! Going elsewhere or staying with them?

here is his map for the anti lag lunch control,

the other pics is how the map should look (it works it may not be the best but it works good)

post-26570-0-89839600-1374492566_thumb.jpg

post-26570-0-70219000-1374492634_thumb.jpg

post-26570-0-06316200-1374492694_thumb.jpg

post-26570-0-71042500-1374492912_thumb.jpg

Edited by R31Nismoid

Lets just keep the tone of the posts down in here, it's treading pretty closely to the line (and i've edited out some of the comments made thus far).

Be mindful that anything you post is only ever one side. Agree with it or not, that's how SAU is and needs to be to survive and keep the legal bills to a minimum around here

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
    • Hi. Which coilpacks can i use in my engine? I looked at the Splitfire but the closest "match" i found was SP-DIS-008 but even that they do not show RB20DE NEO so iam not 100% sure. Or maybe different one which will 100% work? I saw many on ebay but they are some cheap "strange" ones. What about Yellow Jackets? Many thanks 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...